|
|
Yes, I recently worked on the same stove and did the same thing as you did and found the switch was probably bad but due to the high cost, the customer threw it away. Found it very difficult to diagnose. In retrospect, I could have swapped the wiring to a known good burner, but it may have been difficult to do, too many wires.
|
|
|
I replaced the dual burner after hemming and hogging over the expense. I still have the same issue. Is it the switch now?
mike t
|
|
|
The thermal cutoff in the burner must be independent of the switch for safety reasons, preventing the glass from cracking due to overheating.
|
|
|
Thanks for the fast reply and suggestion. When looking at the schematic though, it appears that the switch should shut the thermal cutoff down.
Does the thermal cutoff bypass the switch?
|
|
|
I have an Amana smoothtop range (Model #ARTS6651) and my dual burner is not working right. The 6" is out and the 9" went out but is now working again. I was going to replace the burners but not sure if its the burners or something else? Any advice is much appreicated.
|
|
|
Seems like a bad thermal cutoff in the dual burner, I would start by replacing the burner.
|
|
|
On my dual burner, the inside burner turns on and off. When its at a certain temp it shuts off and this is after I ensured that the switch is turned off. It only ramps for about 5 secs but it does this 24/7.
Model number is 9709209760.
I was thinking that it might be the switch but I dont know because if I power off the entire unit from the breaker box, and then turn on after a couple of minutes, the burner will not turn on until I use it next. Is there a contoller, TC or switch issue.
I look up the switch with the model I have and Amana has obsolete the switch with know replace part identified.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
|
