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The gas safety valve is shown on the picture posted by SublimeMasterJW. Just unscrew the gas line connected to the gas valve and check if the gas is coming out. The orifice is on the gas valve right before the burner tube.
Gene.
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This is your operator.  Here is how it works. This is old school way of checking these: With a helper handy get the dryer going on the cotton cycle. Have the 2 wires that go to the flame sensor in your hand,(you are now the flame sensor) Be careful and don't get shocked. Touch them 2 wires together and watch that ignitor. It should begin to glow. Wait till it is glowing cherry red. Give it a chance to get screaming hot. Then seperate the 2 wires in your hand(Do not let them touch anythang or you..haha) this will shut down the glow bar and power up the gas operator. Why? Because all of the power was previously being hogged by the glowbar. Now that it is shut down a rush of power starts flowing into them coils on that operator. They open up the operator and gas flows out hitting the ignitor/glowbar and kawoosh! The fire shoots out. Your gotta take your time and test it 4 or 3 more times to make sure them coils don't get hot and quit. Good luck! Be careful.
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Gene: Which part is the Gas Saftey valve and how do I check to see if gas is coming into it?
Sublime: If I run a cycle with the Thermal Cutout bybassed should the flame ignite? Or does it actually need that part to start the flame? I am still waiting on that part to come in but should it work without it? (glows but no fmae)
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If the thermal cutout was jumped and the ignitor came on then replace it and let the dryer go through a cycle. The operator may need to go in motion several times till it starts working depending on how long it has been broken.
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Check the gas burner orifice for any clog.
Check if there is gas coming to the gas safety valve.
If these are not an issues then the gas safety valve is a failure suspect.
Gene.
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Thanks for the advice and all your help. Here is the latest: I connected the wires that link up the T - stat, hi - limit and thermal cut-off - Model SGDS800MQ0 (PART # 17) I FINALLY get a glow on the igniter but no fire. The following parts seem to be working properly: Thermal fuse (NEW) Thermostat (ordered but dont think I need it) FLame sensor (NEW) Coils (NEW) Does the dryer need the thermal cut-off kit to start the flame or is there something else wrong? I know this isn't a good solution but since the wires are plastic covered I used my old thermal fuse (which appears to be fine) to jump the t-stat wires. Could direct hot wiring help? I am ordering the Thermal cut off kit now but want to see what else it could be? lol after replacing every little part I am feeling pretty stupid about now.
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Their are 2 small wires and 2 large wires. The smaller wires have nothing to do with the heat other than they change the value of the klixon by heating it up slightly to make it shut down faster. So the 2 large wires should always have continuity. Even when brand new it is hard to get any kind of ohm reading out of the 2 small terminals. Like I said the small wires power up a tiny heater inside the thermodisk so that it will shut down faster for permanent press or delicate. If you think that thermostat is bad jumper the 2 large terminals and see if that bad boy fires up. Let me ask you this: How many wires go into the gas valve assembly at the quick connection? 2 or 3?
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Hi Guys, thanks for the replys.
Gene: Nope the Ignitor does not glow.
Sublime: I have hot wired the flame sensor and thermo fuse wires together and no Glow. I did that before replacing them hoping that was the problem. The only thing I can think to even get a glow is the Thermostat but since there is 4 wires going to it I am unsure how to test it. Any ideas on that?
I am assuming that even if it is the gas line/tank/regulator there should still be a glow coming from the ignitor correct?
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Here is how I would do it. Be careful. I would remove the 2 wires going to that flame sensor. I would get the dryer going on cotton cycle. I would touch them 2 wires together and see if that glow bar comes on. I would wait about 3 minutes and then seperate them wires to shut down the ignitor. The gas should ignite then and you can observe it for a moment holding 2 hot wires in your hand and wondering how you are gonna drop one of them and disconnect the dryer without shorting something out and getting blown to kingdom come. It is way better to have the wife or a witness to be around just so they can unplug the dryer for you. When I check one of these dudes in my shop on my appliance lift, I have the cord real close so when the test is over I just shut down the dryer. Trying to do it at home around a bunch of piled up dirty laundry in a hot utility room all alone may tend to be a problem. Be careful. If the appliance regulator is faulty you will not get any flame You say you have replaced the coils and paid the gas bill. So the regulator is what I am leaning towards. If the regulator is ok and the assembly works with this test then you have either a faulty thermstat like you pictured or it is in the timer itself. As far as the new fangled tank, have you got a grill tank you can hook up to the dryer to prove your theory? Just a thought.
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Does the igniter glow?
Gene.
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