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[COLOR="Blue"]I put the fridge through the defrost mode and nothing happened. what sort of resistance should I be getting from the heater? I'm getting 28.8 ohms through it, and 0.2 through the thermostat when its frozen.[/COLOR]
Both sound OK to me.
Only caveat I have is did you disconnect at least one side of what you were checking. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.
IF both are OK that leaves you with a bad board or broken wire.
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I put the fridge through the defrost mode and nothing happened. what sort of resistance should I be getting from the heater? I'm getting 28.8 ohms through it, and 0.2 through the thermostat when its frozen.
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That you very much sir. I am young and very new to the appliance repair business and have no supervisor or trainer to teach me so I am trying to learn all I can. All of the technicians who voluteer their time on this site have been very helpful. I think you for your time and patients
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[COLOR="Blue"]So the defrost therostat should be 0 ohms all the time, even when its frozen? [/COLOR]
No.
It is only 0 ohms when frozen. It should open a few decrees above freezing.
Stops the herater onve the ice has meted off the coils.
[COLOR="Blue"]and why does the heating element coming on indicate a bad board?[/COLOR]
By the process of elimination, if it comes on, the element is good and the defrost thermostat is good, then the only thing left is the defrost thermostat.
Only other thing it could be is a bad wire/connection but this is very very rare.
[COLOR="Blue"]If you start a defrost cycle isn't the heating element supose to be on?[/COLOR]
Yes.
Forcing a defrost cycle checks the heater and the defrost thermostat (if they come on).
Note that if they do not come on this test does not totally eliminate the timer as the problem. That is why you have to check heater and thermostat with.a meter.
If they then check OK, the odds are the timer is cycling properly but it's contacts are shot.
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So the defrost therostat should be 0 ohms all the time, even when its frozen? and why does the heating element coming on indicate a bad board? If you start a defrost cycle isn't the heating element supose to be on? i would figure the heating element coming on would be normal. I'm just curious.
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I have alot of ice build up on the evaporator. I checked the heater and its ok. I'm only getting 0.2 ohms of resistance through the defrost thermostat. is this ok? Is there any way to check the Adaptive defrost time?
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