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A bad freezer door switch would create those symptoms. I would start there.
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Thanks so much for the advice! I ended up replacing the valve and am now getting ice! Unfortunately, nothing will come out of the dispenser (water or ice). I've replaced the filter but still no luck. Even the light won't come on (even though the bulb tests good). Is there a switch that activates the dispenser that could be bad?
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Continuity checks isn't the best way to check your valve. It's not going to tell you if the valve is getting stuck open.
Heres the sure fire way to test:
1.cycle icemaker ( remove front cover and place a jumper wire between contacts "T & M" untill you here a click then remove. Gear should continue to turn.
2.check for voltage at water valve once icemaker calls for water.
If the voltage drops to 0 and you're still getting water replace valve it's sticking. If you continue to get voltage to valve after 5-10 seconds replace icemaker again.
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When I purchased my house, the refrigerator came with it. The refrigerator works great but the icemaker water had been shut off by the previous owner.
When I turn on the water, the icemaker does not automatically shut off and overfills the tray with water. I must shut the water off at the saddle valve in the basement (which is how the previous owner mustv'e stopped the problem).
A friend told me that the icemaker and bucket needed replacing, which I did. It did not resolve the problem. I searched the web and was referred to your site by FixYa.com. It seems like the second most common part that goes bad is the water valve (part # AP3040697). However, when I measure the ohmage on the purple solenoid it measures 342 ohms, and the green solenoid measures 170 ohms, which tells me that the water valve is good. Correct?
What else could cause the water to not shut off and to overflow the icemaker tray?
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