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No, the testing I have performed thus far has been from my research on YouTube.
The oven I'm trying to repair is my neighbor's and I haven't yet been able to perform the testing you recommended. I hope to do so within the next day or two.
Thank you again for your input!!!
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Did you see anywhere in my post where I said check from BK to ground or check from BRL to ground?
Just test across the terminals i told you to. If you don't get 240 volts, its because something is damaged on the board. A burnt trace or bad relay or blown part.
Shorting a wire can throw 240 volts at 50 amps through a circuit designed to handle 20 to 30 amps at max.
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When doing the tests I've completed thus far, I selected "BAKE", touched one prone of my multi-meter to the neutral screw on the electrical cord terminal block and the other prone of my multi-meter to one end of the bake element and obtained a reading of 120V. I then kept one prone of my multi-meter to the neutral screw on the electrical cord terminal block and touched the other prone of my multi-meter to the other end of the bake element, and again obtained a reading of 120V. Doesn't this indicate the control board is operating properly, or should I be getting readings of 240V on each end of the bake element?
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This is a wiring diagram . Parts for Frigidaire FEF366ECB: Wiring Schematic Parts - AppliancePartsPros.comIf you follow the wires L1 and L2 are 240 volts coming in. They go to terminals L1 and L2 in on the board. L2 out is a common terminal on both the bake and broil elements. If you take a reading from BK to L2 out while the oven is set on "bake", you should read 240 volts. If you take a reading from BRL to L2 out while the oven is set on "broil", you should read 240 volts. If you don't get 240 volts , there is something wrong with the board.
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It takes 240 volts to make the bake or broil elements get hot.
If you are not reading 240 volts to the two element terminals you need to find out why.
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Thanks for your reply!
Subsequent to my initial post, I have confirmed I have power (240V) to the power block where the electrical cord attaches to the stove; I have 120V going to each of the 2 "iN" pins on the control board; I have 120V coming out of each of the 2 "OUT" pins on the control board; I have 120V going to the corresponding elements when I set the stove to either "BAKE" or "BROIL"; and I believe the heat control probe is working. From my research on YouTube, these are the items I discovered should be tested. Before performing the various tests, I figured I was going to discover I had damaged the control board; however, my tests to not confirm that is the case. I'm still stumped.
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When installing a new bake element, I failed to connect the wires to the element which, when testing the oven, resulted in one of the wires coming into contact with a metal plate on the back and damaging the connector. It also apparently damaged or shorted something else since the oven won't work on either bake or broil following my replacing the connector and appropriately connecting the wires. Can you advise me as to what other part/s I may have damaged when the electrical cord shorted out? (The oven did work on broil before I replaced the bake element which I botched.)
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