You make sure the appliance is plugged in properly. If it is not, remove the plug from the socket and then re-insert it. If the plug is properly inserted, remove the plug and try plugging another item into the same socket. If the newly plugged in item does not work, try resetting the circuit breaker for that outlet.
Lower the temperature control settings in your refrigerator and freezer. Let the refrigerator run for several hours and then re-check the temperature.
If your refrigerator is in direct sunlight or located near a heat source, move the refrigerator if you can. If you cannot move it, lower the temperature controls in your refrigerator and freezer.
Move the refrigerator so that its back is farther from the wall. The minimum clearance required between the back of the refrigerator and the wall is one inch. The refrigerator may be in DEMO MODE. If it is in DEMO MODE, the display will read OF f, which will disable the compressor in order to save electricity when the refrigerator is on the showroom floor. Press the ENERGY SAVER and POWER FREEZE / FREEZER buttons for 3 seconds to cancel this mode. You will hear a chime. If the problem is not solved, I will suggest you to buy a new one. You can visit at https://www.commercialfridgefreezer.com.au/ for buying a new freeze.

Hello everyone, I am looking for more opinions on my situation. My fridge is only 1.5 years old. The power company was doing some work in the area and shut the power off for a bit and then turned it back on. A couple days later I noticed my fridge acting up. The LCD panel was showing what the fridge and freezer should have been at but everything was warm. No error codes were showing. I unplugged and plugged back in and shortly after the fridge came back to normal temperature but the freezer did not (even though the display panel said (0 degree F). I did the 2 button reset trick and nothing. Ever since the fridge has worked no problems and the freezer stays around 40. This fridge is twin cooling, dual evaps with one compressor. I had a repair guy come out and he did all his diagnosing etc and said he thinks the main PCB needs to be replaced as the freezer is staying in demo mode. The warranty company called me and said instead of fixing it they were going to refund me so i can buy a new fridge and they told me to dispose of it as the store does not want it back. So I will diligently dispose of it to my garage. Online the PCB board is $150 shipped or so and not too hard to replace. I am wondering if it is worth buying a new one to see if that is my problem or not.

-Display was showing freezer at 0 degree F, but internal temp is 40F
- Fridge is showing 37 and is 37.
-After pressing buttons and running the forced mode and diagnostic test the freeze temp displays 40F now, not 0.
- I put the fridge in forced compressor on mode and after about 20 mins the freezer display temp dropped from 40F to about 18F but the internal temp remained at 40F. so clearly a communication error somewhere as the panel is reading wrong.
- I opened the freezer evap panel and there was no frost on the evap coils, just some slightly on the tubing about to enter the coils.
- compressor runs , fan runs ,fridge is at normal temperature, no error codes displayed, unplugged and plugged in may time, reset the using the 2 buttons but still to no avail the freezer will not cool. Does my issue sound plausible to be the PCB or more of a sealed system?

If it was a sealed system issue then wouldn't my fridge be warm too? aka a leak.