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I was just reading over your list of complaints and one thing stands out to me. In reference the lights dimming each time the motor spins to agitate. I know you are going to find the plastic cam. Now I think maybe you should test the capacitor. It should read 45 microfarads + or - 10% so no higher than 49% or lower that 41%. It might be bad causing a big draw on power.
Just an after thought.
I agree with your last statement I believe things are built with planned obsolescence in mind!
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Ok I have a friend who works at whirlpool who is trying to help me now. Seems stupid that a 3 year old washing machine would break like this. Its a crap design to have a plastic part like that so close to a hot motor which would weaken and break a plastic cam for a pulley system. So sick of this cheap cutting corners crap only to have to turn around and buy a part that costs a third of what I paid for the dang thing brand new. No wonder everyone is walking around mad about everything in the world. Maybe if companies would build a durable product charge the extra money for what it takes to build something that lasts then maybe we wouldn't have to ship our jobs over seas or to mexico for idiots to build them. People pay good money for something and then it breaks outside the warranty. then we are left having to figure out how to fix the stupid thing ourselves only to find out the most expensive part and most vital of the system is built to break on purpose so they can sell parts to us.
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If you can find that part separate yes you can replace it. However it is not a separate part we sell. Likely someone may have it from a burnt out motor, selling it after market.
I've done it before but I scrap old units of parts to refurbish others, so yes to your question it is replaceable.
Let us know if you find one and your repair works.
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Ok so forget everything else I said. I found my problem. The small plastic cam that holds the belt onto the bottom of the motor is all chewed up and completely destroyed. I guess my next question is can I replace the cam and not the whole motor if I can get it off? its pretty nasty the shaft that holds the cam onto the motor is separated from the body of the cam. I see there are cam replacements available. Can I just replace these?
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Ok so there is nothing obstructing the tub. I think I will try the shift actuator. Strange thing though the agitation does not seem as vigorous. Another thing this washer has always dimmed the lights in house when its agitating the lights dance along with the agitation of the washer but I suspect that may be an electrical issue. Anyway I watched the video on how to change the shift actuator seems easy enough.
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OK great I will try that when I get home from work I really appreciate your help.I will let you know how it goes.
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Ok to check for something that might be stuck between the inner and outer tubs here is the way to access. First at the back of the machine you will find two hinges holding the top to the cabinet. Take off the top screw of each hinge. Then you will see a plate just to the right of the left hinge. This is a wiring / water level tube cover. Remove that plate. Then you can slide the top forward about an inch or so lift slightly then slide back lifting again and the top will hinge up and you can lean it back against the wall or something. Don't let it lean back to far so as to damage the hinges or the wiring. You now have access to the top of the tub where you can remove the washer tub ring to see if anything is stuck between the inner wash tub and outer plastic tub. Another cause of this issue may be the washer actuator Whirlpool WPW10006355 Shift Actuator - AppliancePartsPros.com (trany shifter in my words) isn't shifting out of agitate completely.
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I think it was draining fine to begin to with. I was just not letting it cycle through. The noise started to subside during agitation. Now it will go through the cycle and get to drain and spin. At this point it just keeps trying to drain and will not spin. the clothes are obviously still soaked but the water does drain fine. Its sounds like something is grinding or not allowing the unit to spin correctly. The first time this happened it was a terrible loud high pitch squeal. I did find the pump last night by tilting the unit like you just said. the motor turns fine. I now cant figure out how to get the case off so I can disassemble the basket to see if there is something in there causing this issue. It does not seem to come apart like my old top load. Usually you move the controls and un clip 2 clips and the case pops off and you can work on the basket. THis thing seems to be different.
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After unplugging the unit you can visually see the drain pump and drive system by tilting the machine back and looking under the bottom. The drain pump is a separate motor/system from the drive system. So my first question would be what did you do to cause it to start draining? My second question does the high pitched sound happen only during agitation?
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OK revise this I got to drain now. But it sounds horrible. And now its agitating and it sounds bad. Almost like a high pitch grinding or something.
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