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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:38:56 AM(UTC)
 
You are welcome

Glad you found it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
DavidG1058 Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 10:29:35 AM(UTC)
 
denman thanks for you help, I have determined that indeed the switch is bad. 3 of the contacts were welded closed. cleaned them and the washer ran through half its cycle before it failed again. I am ordering the replacement now.
denman Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 9:07:26 AM(UTC)
 
Probably means your timer is gone, drain contacts are not closing.

Do you have the wiring diagram, it may have been taped to the back of the kick plate or under the unit.

GE keeps their tech info a secret so I will not be able to say which contacts are the correct ones to check.

You may be able to figure it out, if they have two different colored wires on the solenoid. White would be Neutral. The other one will be the one that is switched to power.
I would check both of these for continuity back to the timer.
If OK
You can find the drain contacts if the plug on the timer is 3 by 6 or so contacts. It is the 3 that is important. The wire from the drain solenoid one side, the center wire will be the common (power) and the other side may be used to switch in something like the water valve
So if you disconnect power from the unit and turn the timer the contacts should close when the drain valve is supposed to open.

Just for your info these contacts sticking closed is a common cause of the solenoids overheating. Perhaps they were pitted and sticking and now have completely failed.

Hope this helps and that I have explained it clearly.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
DavidG1058 Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 7:56:44 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Remove the wires from it and check it with a meter for continuity, if it is open it is shot.

If it has continuity, replace the wires on it set your meter to AC volts, start a cycle and measure across it. When the unit is supposed to start it should receive 120 volts for about 5 seconds.

denman,
Ok I have continuity across the terminals.

rotating the dial slowly by hand I get no voltage across the terminals with the wires reconnected...

Any idea what to check next...

TIA
denman Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 6:10:57 AM(UTC)
 
Remove the wires from it and check it with a meter for continuity, if it is open it is shot.

If it has continuity, replace the wires on it set your meter to AC volts, start a cycle and measure across it. When the unit is supposed to start it should receive 120 volts for about 5 seconds.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
DavidG1058 Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 5:57:31 AM(UTC)
 
I have a GE Model # GSD3400G00CC and it will not drain unless I engage the solenoid by hand. I have no wiring diagram and need to know how to test the solenoid. Also Solenoid was replaced about 1 year ago the old one had melted.

TIA