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Do I need the unit plugged into to check the timer?
Yes whenever checking resistance unplug the unit.
[COLOR="Blue"]AP3131939 . He said he did not believe that the two smaller prongs that receive the purple wires should show any reading on the meter...but he said they did.[/COLOR]
They should, see below.
[COLOR="Blue"]
AP3131939 or the timer or both, what would you recommend?[/COLOR]
Just the timer, AP3131939 is probably OK.
It is the cycling thermostat.
The 2 red contacts should measure 0 ohms. The connect in the main heating coil.
The 2 purple contacts should measure a resistance though I do not know how much. They are an internal heating coil that is used when you choose a lower heat setting. It adds heat to the thermostat making it cycle more often and thereby also reducing the heat output of the main heating coil.
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I will recheck that part. I brought my parts...not the timer though into the local dealer guy. He did not think you could check the timer without the power on and would not confirm the red black wire continuity thing on the timer. Do I need the unit plugged into to check the timer?
He also said all parts checked out ok but he questioned:
AP3131939 . He said he did not believe that the two smaller prongs that receive the purple wires should show any reading on the meter...but he said they did. He is going to look into that and get back to me but thought this may be the culprit. If it comes down to ordering:
AP3131939 or the timer or both, what would you recommend?
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I went again to see if I could download a wiring diagram and this time got one. See the attachment. You are correct there should be continuity (0 ohms) from black to red on the timed in any heating mode. Yes you can get a replacement timer from AppliancePartsPros. Click on the picture for more info about the parts. Part number: AP5272616
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note there was no power to the unit when I did this check....is it was unplugged. later I will carefully check to insure 220V is going to the unit...
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Originally Posted by: denman  First I would check the power just because there is power at the box does not nean there is power at the unit.
Could be a bad wire, a bad wall receptacle or a bad line cord.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
Do you have the wiring diagram?
If not it may be in the control console.
I cannot find a diagram for this unit. On a whim I just looked at the timer. I pulled the plug that has the red blue black purple wire off the time from the back of the unit. I set the time to OFF. There is no continuity from black to red. Expected right? I then set the timer to timed dry. Shouldn't there be continuity? There does not appear to be any. Ditto for the moisture sensing position. Does this mean the timer is bad? Do you sell this part?
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First I would check the power just because there is power at the box does not nean there is power at the unit.
Could be a bad wire, a bad wall receptacle or a bad line cord.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
Do you have the wiring diagram?
If not it may be in the control console.
I cannot find a diagram for this unit.
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I have a 3 year old Kenmore electric dryer model 11061202011. Several times recently my wife complained it was not getting hot. Each time, after work I checked and it seemed fine each time. It happened to me today but this time its not getting hot.
The drum turns.
The dryer is not clogged - I checked the rigid metal vent and the back of the dryer. They are both clear. Air comes forcefully out the back of the dryer but its not warm or hot.
The switch on the front is NOT set to air dry.
The fuse box has two fuses for the dryer, both are on.
I checked the two stats in part 279816. They each appear to show continuity.
I pulled the heating element assemble (279838). It showed continuity.
I pulled the high limit stat(3977767) It showed continuity - I believe this part is also included with: 279816.
I pulled and checked the thermal fuse(3392519), the local appliance dealer said he believed that if this part was bad the dryer would not function at all. Nevertheless, it showed continuity.
I noted one other part, two red wires, two purple...not sure the part #. I showed the local dealer a picture of it and he thought that if this part was bad the dryer would not function at all. Nevertheless, red / red showed continuity as did purple to purple.
I know continuity does not guaranty the part is good. I am not sure what to try next or what parts to perhaps try to swap out first. I hate to replace the unit, its only 3 years old.
Thanks!
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