A model number would be helpful.
Find your model number - AppliancePartsPros.comA fuse would blow right away if you have a dead short in the unit.
Note that I am not sure you are using the correct terminology.
What is normally called the thermal fuse kills power to the motor.
Could be you replaced the thermal cut-off or the high limit thermostat.
They effect only the heat.
I would unplug the unit and check the heat coil.
Disconnect both wires from the heater and measure across the heater.
Should be in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
Now check from each side of the heater to it's case.
Both should be infinite ohms.
If not the heater is grounded and should be replaced.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
