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Thanks for the information.
When we respond to electric dryer problems about the first thing we say to folks is to test the voltage on each side of the connection block. It is not usually the problem, but sometimes it is, and if so it save a lot of money and time for the home owner.
Sometimes I do not thing they take this advice seriously, so your post will be helpful!
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Last week our Whirlpool Duet Sport dryer stopped -- it was dead, no power, no lights, no nothing. After looking on this forum I figured it likely was the thermal fuse, but it was simpler. This might apply to any model, any brand, depending on how sensitive it is to the right voltage.
Before disassembling anything, I figured I had better check the outlet for the correct 240 volts -- 120 on each leg. I used a voltmeter instead of light. Sure enough one leg showed 120, but the other was 44. It was the same at the load side of the breaker, so I switched the breaker off and on a few times.
That fixed the problem. The dryer then had 120 on each side, and it powered up and has run fine since. My wife says it dries better. She was having to run some loads twice. I suppose the low voltage could account for that.
Thought it might be helpful if you encounter the same symptoms.
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