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With a strange reading like that, I would replace it.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  I don't advise ordering parts without troubleshooting first. Take the little square cover off the front panel and see if you see the glow from the ignitor when you start the dryer in a heat cycle. If you do, the problem is not the thermal fuse or hi limit thermostat. If no glow, then it could be any number of things including timer, hi limit thermostat, thermal cutoff, operating thermostat, thermal fuse, flame sensor or ignitor.
Eric Eric, thanks for your advice but I ended up buying only the Thermal Fuse locally on a hunch for $11.00 (non-returnable unlike APP). I ended up tearing down the unit and a continuity test showed the thermal fuse to not have continuity. I have read a few instances where some say yes and others don't even mention replacing the high limit thermostat or better yet replacing with this kit when doing a thermal fuse: Cutoff-Tml #W10480709. I will say that testing the thermostat for continuity shows the ohms varing up and down and up and down before they zero out, whereas the other continuity tests of the other parts go straight to zero. Please set me straight should I replace with that kit or not?. Thanks
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I don't advise ordering parts without troubleshooting first. Take the little square cover off the front panel and see if you see the glow from the ignitor when you start the dryer in a heat cycle. If you do, the problem is not the thermal fuse or hi limit thermostat. If no glow, then it could be any number of things including timer, hi limit thermostat, thermal cutoff, operating thermostat, thermal fuse, flame sensor or ignitor.
Eric
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Thanks for your reply. Also I would like to just order parts today so I can work on this thing asap. I don't have time to rip the back off today. I don't mind ordering extra parts. So would the thermal fuse and hi thermostat be what I should order?
I tried to correct the model # as I want others to be able to get the correct info but I could only edit the body. Is there a way to do it?
Thanks again for your help
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Yes, I would check the thermal fuse. In auto dry, the timer will not advance unless the dryer is heating. The way it works in auto is that while the burner is on, the timer does not advance. When the temperature reaches the point that the operating thermostat cycles the burner off, the timer starts advancing. When the temp drops and the burner cycles back on, the timer stops advancing. So, the operating thermostat must cycle for the timer to advance in auto dry.
BTW, your model number starts with LGR, not LRG.
Eric
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Hello,
History: After having the typical flame up for one minute and then flame goes out issue almost (3) years ago. I replaced the following parts and all was well:
Dryer gas coil kit # 279834, Flame Sensor # 338906, Dryer igniter kit and bracket # 279311, and Dryer repair kit # 4392065.
The other night I turned the dryer on before bed on the "more dry/less dry" setting. I slept through the night (7 hours give or take) and awoke to hear the dryer still going! I checked it and the clothes were dry but there was no heat. I turned the dial to cycle it through the cycles, unplugged it, etc and tried to start it repeatedly, but there was no flame ignition sounds at all, no flame (not even briefly like 3 years ago), no heat, and the timer doesn't seem to be keeping time properly although I can hear it "ticking" when on the "Timed Dry" setting.
I have not checked the thermal fuse.
Please weigh in and thanks in advance!
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