You are welcome.

Could be that there was just a bad connection in the motor circuit.

Sorry but I am out of ideas as it seems everything measures OK.

Use the most sensitive resistance scale!!!

The motor reading seems strange so disconnect the gray wire and then measure from that connector to the red. It should read a couple ohms. If it is open (infinite ohms) the motor is toast. If it measures OK also read from the gray connector to the motor housing. This should be infinite ohms re: you are checking to see if a motor winding is grounded.

Make sue the timer is mid scale timed dry.
Now measure from the gray wire ti L1. Should be 0 ohms.
If OK reconnect the gray wire.
If infinite ohms then narrow down where the open is.

Now disconnect the red wire from the motor.
With the door closed and the start button pressed measure to Neutral.
It should be 0 ohms.

I would print out the wiring diagram and then use a colored pencil to mark the motor circuit. I would then once again check that circuit with a meter.

[COLOR="Blue"]The door switch was removed when I took the readings. It seems only when the start button is pressed and held that there is any resistance (the 0 reading) with the yellow door switch wire.[/COLOR]
This is what you would expect because the yellow goes to one side of the push to start and the other side connects in the rest of the dryer.
It also goes to the motor's centrifugal switch but this is open when the motor is at rest.

[COLOR="Blue"]The readings from the unwired door switch prongs (the two outter ones for the white and yellow wires) show resistance when the door switch button is pressed) I.e., 0.[/COLOR]

This also looks OK.

So I am stumped.
The following does not make sense
[COLOR="Blue"]Motor – gray - 0
Motor - red - 1
Push start button - red - 0
[/COLOR]
When you measure from gray to red at the motor switches you are measuring the motor windings so there should be a resistance reading.
The start and run windings are in parallel and both are in circuit when the motor is at rest. Each one is usually around 4 ohms so you should read 2 ohms, approximately.
Then when you read to the red at the push to start you have a resistance.
These two points should give the same reading as they are connected by the red wire.
Check that the wire from the motor to the start switch is OK.
Disconnect one end of it and measure it.
It should be 0 ohms.

[COLOR="Blue"]It seems the meter needed to be set to a higher Ohm setting.[/COLOR]
You should use the most sensitive scale usually 200 ohms.
The problem using a higher meter scale is that lower ohms readings ( such as the motor windings which are just a couple ohms) will show 0 which is a dead short so would indicate a blown motor.

Below are the revised readings. The motor has but one red wire. The motor harness wires are: black, green, red, gray, yellow, blue (Left-Right). The timer is set to timed dry-about at the midpoint.

Was the start button pushed and the door switch closed when you read the white. If yes then it looks like a bad door switch.
[COLOR="Blue"] Door switch – yellow - 0 (when start button pressed)
Door switch – white - 1
White terminal strip - 1
White cord prong - 1
[/COLOR]

I am having some problems reading the wiring diagram due to it's poor quality.

I am assuming that the timer is set mid scale of a timed dry cycle.

Also note that when I say 0 I mean the shorted meter lead resistance you saw.

L1 terminal 6 [COLOR="Red"]This should be 0 as you are just measuring the wire in the cord.[/COLOR]
L2 terminal 1[COLOR="Red"] I am not sure what is going on here as you normally see some resistance when the timer is at any position other than off. [/COLOR]

Timer - gray 20 [COLOR="Red"]This should read the same as the black when in a operational mode re: the timer contacts are shorted.[/COLOR]
Timer – black 22 [COLOR="Red"]I do not know why you jump from 6 ohms to 22 as this is connected directly back to L1 at the terminal strip.
[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"]
All the thermal fuse readings should be the same as the grey reading but you jump up to around 30 ohms. but since you get the same reading on all of them I would say they are OK.[/COLOR]
Thermal fuse in Front (33001762) wire in back 34
Thermal fuse in Front - wire in front 1 (unplugged)
Thermal fuse in Rear (307473) wire in back 30
Thermal fuse in Rear – wire in front 30

Motor – gray 27 [COLOR="Red"]This is the same as the thermal fuses but now you drop a couple ohms.[/COLOR]
Motor - red 1 [COLOR="Red"]I am assuming that you are measuring to the smaller red wire. The larger one is for the heater. I again am having problems reading the diagram so am assuming there are two red wires on the motor switches.
If this is true then the readings indicate a blown motor.
I would disconnect it and recheck just the motor windings.
Be sure to note where the wires go.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Red"]I am not sure what you are reading at the push to start, could be the chime.
I do not know why the red does not read the same as the red at the motor they should be the same test point.[/COLOR]
Push start button - red 18
Push start button - yellow 18

Door switch – yellow 33 [COLOR="Red"]Here again I am confused as the yellow is the same as the yellow at the push to start but you get a different reading.[/COLOR]
Door switch – white 1 [COLOR="Red"]With the door switch closed this reading should be the same as the yellow re: the switch contacts are shorted. I would disconnect it and measure across it to see if it is OK.[/COLOR]
White terminal strip 1
White cord 1

I am not sure why your meter readings seem yo vary so much for places which should give the same reading.
Could be a low meter battery but usually the meter would show this.
Could be that the meter leads need cleaning.

Anyways the two places that concern me the most are the motor windings and the door switch.