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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Tuesday, December 30, 2014 2:29:32 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="Blue"]Is it the thermostat?[/COLOR]
I cannot say, you have to check iot with a meter.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
artpell Posted: Monday, December 29, 2014 8:47:42 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks for responding. It was the control board that I replaced not the panel. I think it goes into preheat, as display lights, and i hear clicks, but no heat. Thing that is weir is that when I put the first board in the coils lit. then when i put oven into self clean, nothing. Now with new board, no coil heat. Is it the thermostat? I understand there could be wiring problems, but given that it worked with board one, it seems unlikely that wiring went out. Ideas?
Thanks
denman Posted: Friday, December 26, 2014 1:43:53 AM(UTC)
 
Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MEW5530DDW Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

[COLOR="Blue"]Is it the thermostat? Is it Temp. control sensor?[/COLOR]
Could be either one or something different.

Does the unit stay in pre-heat or does ir show that it is ready.
If it stays in pre-heat then the sensor is OK. re: the unit knows the temperature is too low and is trying to raise it.

[COLOR="Blue"]I replaced the control panel. The coils lit. I put it in self-clean. It didn't work. Back to square one. I put a new control panel in.[/COLOR]
Am I interpreting the above correctly re: you replaced the control panel twice?

Also why did you replace the control panel (keypad) and not the control board (clock) as it is the clock that actually does the controlling?

I would start by checking the power.
The control board etc. run off of half the line but the elements require the full 240 volts.
See my usual blurb below. Your unit may be hard wired in so some of it may not apply.

If the power is OK then unplug the unit of flip the breakers off and check the hi-limit thermostat (item 7 in section 02). Both switches should be 0 ohms.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
artpell Posted: Thursday, December 25, 2014 1:04:08 PM(UTC)
 
I have a Maytag MEW5530DDW wall oven. It doesn't not heat in broil or bake. I have checked the coils. They are good. I replaced the control panel. The coils lit. I put it in self-clean. It didn't work. Back to square one. I put a new control panel in. still no heat. Goes click, click. Is it the thermostat? Is it Temp. control sensor? Any suggestions?