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I think what you are hearing is the transmission shifting. On this model the transmission is in neutral during the drain process so that the motor is not trying to spin the basket while it is full of water. The transmission is designed to shift into reverse (spin) direction after the timer causes the motor to temporarily stop. The 'clunk' you are hearing may be that shifting of gears.
And no, it is not supposed to be as loud as it sounds like what you have. If it continues or gets worse I suggest you try and get the seller (hopefully this site) to replace it as it is likely to get worse and ultimately fail.
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Update:
I pulled everything out and I believe it was just leaking around the seals. Which in turn caused the clutch to become dirty and worn. A lot of dust in the clutch housing. Looks like brake pad material.
I decided to go with a new transmission. The washer is close to 15 yrs old and figured time to just replace the whole drive case. So I installed a new transmission assembly with new clutch and it seems to be running fine. It spins now like it hasn't in a long time!
Two things I have noticed... it sounds different than it did before when going through the wash cycle (agitating). It sounds louder. Not bad like something is wrong, just like the gears are louder when working.
Also, after the was cycle, it pumps out the water, pauses, then starts the spin cycle with a pretty loud snap/bang. I assume this is the brake arm hitting the clutch spring? Is this somewhat "normal"? Seems to me when it was new you could hear a definite clunk but It seems louder now. I would almost say it sounds like it would if you took a small hammer and gave a reasonable whack to the metal basket.
Thanks!
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Well, I have my new clutch parts and today got the washer up on end preparing to pull things apart and I see I have a lot of oil leaking. it seems to be dripping off of several bolts and the bottom of the transmission itself. It also looks like some was flung out along some of the support brackets underneath. I am now thinking I have a more serious issue. What should I look for with oil leaks. It is possible for the transmission case to crack?
I plan on pulling the whole assembly out of the machine tomorrow.
Anyone have some general things to look for going forward with these issues?
Thanks in advance!
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You can replace the coupling while you are in there. It is an inexpensive part and you have to get to it to get to the clutch anyway, so no use reinstalling the old coupling.
That's about it, you should not need to replace anything else.
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I have researched my "no spin" issue and am fairly confident that I need a new clutch. Right before it goes into spin mode I hear a loud clunk. then it sounds like it is spinning but it usually doesn't. If I manually rotate the drum a couple inches and close the lid, then it will usually start spinning.
My question is if I am going to replace the clutch, what other things would be suggested to replace while I am at it. I would assume someone with experience might suggest the coupler. Anything else?
Thanks for your input!
Joe
This is a Kenmore Elite top load that is about 12 years old. I haven't had any other issues and cannot say I have noticed any other noises or symptoms.
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