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[COLOR="Blue"]Does this add to your suspicions of a faulty thermostat/cold control?[/COLOR]
Not really
[COLOR="Blue"]Is there a difference between problems with the start relay vs the thermostat, or a way to test it?[/COLOR]
Is the evaporator fan on but the compressor is off?
The reason this is important is that they are wired in parallel so both should be on together.
So if the fan is on and the compressor is not it points towards the start device.
If the fan and compressor are both off it points towards a bad thermostat.
You can double check the thermostat by unplugging the unit and shorting the two thermostat contact wires together. You may have to tape them so they do not short to anything else. Then plug the unit in.
If the compressor fires up then it is a thermostat problem.
The unplug and plug in a couple times just to be sure.
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Hi denman,
Thanks for your quick reply. I did try turning the thermostat up and down, but it did not start the unit. I had to turn it off, then turn it up to get the unit to start running again. I tried to do this a few more times, and about 1 out of every 10 times, I would be able to turn the dial from off then up, but it would not start the unit. I also think I cud hear a clicking noise inside the dial - I'm pretty sure it wasn't from behind the fridge. Does this add to your suspicions of a faulty thermostat/cold control? Is there a difference between problems with the start relay vs the thermostat, or a way to test it?
Thanks again for your reply.
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[COLOR="Blue"]I put in a new defrost timer, a new bimetal thermostat, and I verified that the heater could turn on.[/COLOR]
I do not think that your problem is in the defrost circuitry.
[COLOR="Blue"]
The only other things I can think of are the thermostat, the start relay, or the control board. [/COLOR]
The unit does not have a control board so that leaves the start device and the thermostat.
Out of those two the thermostat is the more likely.
Have you tried turning the thermostat up/down without turning it to off?
If it starts up then I would replace the thermostat.
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This is really puzzling me because it worked for a week without any problems.[/COLOR]
It is not uncommon for a thermostat to stick open intermittently.
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Hi denman,
Sorry to say, but the refrigerator stopped running again after lasting for about a week. I put in a new defrost timer, a new bimetal thermostat, and I verified that the heater could turn on.
Do you have any suggestions on what to check next? My thinking is that the refrigerator is having trouble starting, because the defrost system should be ok now. The only other things I can think of are the thermostat, the start relay, or the control board. This is really puzzling me because it worked for a week without any problems. Do you have any suggestions on where to look next?
Thanks
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You are welcome.
Sounds like you have got it beat but I will keep my fingers crossed as I do not want to jinx you.
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Thank you denman for your answers. The ice water test actually didn't help, as it took a few hours in the freezer for the bimetal thermostat to get cold enough. I took it out and tested it for continuity and it passed. As soon as it got warm enough, I heard the thermostat click, which I believe is the metal expanding to release the contacts again.
It makes sense that the defrost heater did not turn on because I turned it into defrost mode in a warm fridge. The bimetal thermostat would not be closed in that situation.
It does seem everything should be working now, so I will give it a few days to see if any problems develop.
Thanks again.
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I am assuming that the only problem now is that the defrost heater did not come on during your test.
And that the compressor is running and the unit is cooling down.
[COLOR="Blue"]
1) If the bimetal thermostat was always open and the heater thus never came on, but the defrost timer was functional, what kind of symptoms would this have?[/COLOR]
The unit would never defrost so the coils would clog solid with ice/frost.
The evaporator fan could not pull air through the coils so the temperatures would rise. The compressor then would run all the time except when the unit goes through a defrost cycle.
[COLOR="Blue"]Wouldn't it just never defrost but still keep the fridge cold and running?[/COLOR]
Yes
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2) Was I wrong to not wait until the fridge got cold enough?[/COLOR]
It is easier to check the defrost when the unit is cold/frozen.
I would have let it run to see if it will cool down to the correct temperatures.
[COLOR="Blue"]If the fridge was warm, and I set it to defrost mode via the timer, would the heater element turn on? [/COLOR]
No
3) Is there a case where the bimetal thermostat being always open would result in the fridge not running?
No
[COLOR="Blue"]4) I feel very strongly that this is caused by something in the defrost controls, but could I be missing something else?[/COLOR]
I am not sure what the problem is.
You said the fridge did run when you first installed the timer so I am confused.
[COLOR="Blue"]5) I feel like I've ruled out that the compressor is overheating and shutting off because it worked enough to freeze everything when i jumpered pins 1 and 3.[/COLOR]
I agree with you
[COLOR="Blue"]Anyways, sorry for the long post but let me know if you can figure out what's going on.[/COLOR]
Not a problem.
Slowly move the timer till the compressor starts up again and leave it to see what happens.
PS: I am not a fan of immersing a defrost thermostat in water. If any water gets into the part it will be screwed. I either freeze it in another freezer or hold it's metal face onto an ice cube.
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Thanks for the reply denman. I was able to replace the timer, but I wasn't sure if it was running correctly still. When I turned the fridge back on, the compressor ran, so I tested the timer by turning it until it clicked, which I assume should put it into defrost mode. However, when I opened the freezer, the heater element did not heat up. So I took the bimetal thermostat out, and put a wire between the connections, essentially bypassing it, and the heater started warming up.
I did try testing the bimetal thermostat for continuity when warm and when in a glass of ice water, but it showed as open all the time.
1) If the bimetal thermostat was always open and the heater thus never came on, but the defrost timer was functional, what kind of symptoms would this have? Wouldn't it just never defrost but still keep the fridge cold and running?
2) Was I wrong to not wait until the fridge got cold enough? If the fridge was warm, and I set it to defrost mode via the timer, would the heater element turn on? I would assume no, because the bimetal thermostat would be open. However, I found that the bimetal thermostat was open all the time, which implies it is defective, but I can't match up the symptoms.
3) Is there a case where the bimetal thermostat being always open would result in the fridge not running?
4) I feel very strongly that this is caused by something in the defrost controls, but could I be missing something else? The fact that everything started running when I spun the defrost timer pointed to it as the culprit, but now I'm second guessing myself.
5) I feel like I've ruled out that the compressor is overheating and shutting off because it worked enough to freeze everything when i jumpered pins 1 and 3.
Anyways, sorry for the long post but let me know if you can figure out what's going on.
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See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
I think you shorted out the control thermostat which would keep the compressor on all the time.
I do not think you made the defrost cycle worse but you will have to track down what is making the noise.
Hopefully you can replace the timer ASAP.
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Hi all,
My fridge recently stopped running suddenly, so I spun the defrost timer around and it started running again for a day, but then stopped running again. I figured the defrost timer was messed up, so I ordered a new one. In the meantime, I took the timer connector off and jumpered pins 1 and 3 (the order is 2 3 4 1, which is pretty standard I believe). This made the fridge run, but there was a loud noise later on, and then eventually it froze all the food, even in the fridge. Does this sound like I made my defrost timer problem worse, or is there another issue?
Thanks for any advice.
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