[COLOR="Blue"]
My question is do you think i need a new board?[/COLOR]
I cannot say for sure.
Did you check the defrost thermostat. It should be 0 ohms.
It must be closed for the heater to come on so the coils should have been frozen over when you forced the defrost.
Note that it opens just above freezing. Holding an ice cube to it's metal face or putting it in another freezer for a while should freeze it/close it.
If it is bulged/deformed replace it even if it measures OK.

[COLOR="Blue"]Should i be concerned about the 109 volts????[/COLOR]
Yes if the power to the unit is 120 volts then you should get 120 volts at the heater.
This could be pointing to a bad control board.
Also might be a bad connection between the control board up to the defrost heater.
If you force a defrost cycle and get 109 volts between P1-2 (Neutral) and P1-3 (heater) then you know the problem is on the board. Again the coils should be frozen over.
If you see 120 volts here and 109 across the heater then there is a bad connection or a problem with the defrost thermostat.

[COLOR="Blue"]Also, where is the board on this unit?[/COLOR]
I believe it is item 18 in section 09 by the compressor.

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GD5RHAXNQ00 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Remove the cover in the freezer.
Do not let the evaporator coils defrost.
Force a defrost. See the tech sheet.
If the defrost heater gets hot then replace the control board.
Be careful that you do not burn your fingers.

If the heater does not come on.
Unplug the unit and measure at the board from P1-2 to P1-3.
Should be about 25 ohms.
If it is then replace the board.

If it is open then you will have to recheck the heater and the defrost thermostat and wiring.