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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
thorning Posted: Monday, October 20, 2014 2:01:48 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
[COLOR="Blue"]Upper felt seal worn out from taking it apart several times? Or bearing kit no good?[/COLOR]
I cannot say without being there.

Did you clean out and then re-grease the rear support bearing using high temperature grease?

Be very careful if you try to grease the rear support bearing. Many of these are sealed bearings and will not accept grease. A grease that melts and drops down into the area of the motor or other sections can be a real mess if it does not cause a fire.
denman Posted: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 11:59:01 PM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="Blue"]Upper felt seal worn out from taking it apart several times? Or bearing kit no good?[/COLOR]
I cannot say without being there.

Did you clean out and then re-grease the rear support bearing using high temperature grease?
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kevinlp Posted: Saturday, October 11, 2014 12:30:36 PM(UTC)
 
Found it. I forgot to plug in the element.

Next problem. After I put it back together was getting a noise. Research said replace bearing kit. Did look quite blackened.

Now it's quiet when the heat isn't on. When the heat comes on it get loud and shakes.

Upper felt seal worn out from taking it apart several times? Or bearing kit no good?

Help :(
denman Posted: Wednesday, October 1, 2014 6:34:58 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="Blue"]Any way to test it? [/COLOR]
One way is to unplug the unit then short the switch wires together.
Be sure to tape them etc. so that they cannot short to anything else or get caught in moving parts.
Then plug it in and give it a try.
The above is just for testing do not leave the unit like this.
[COLOR="Blue"]
What are the chances it went bad along with the element?[/COLOR]
It is possible if the element was pulling too much current before it blew and took out the switch.

The first thing I would check is the power to/at the unit.
The heater requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kevinlp Posted: Wednesday, October 1, 2014 4:28:52 AM(UTC)
 
My Gibson GER331CS0 electric dryer stopped producing heat last weekend. Following the great info on this site I checking many possible causes. Eventually, I took the dryer apart and found the heating element had broken. Both ends appeared to have remained in the clear of ground.

I purchased and installed a new element from AppliancePartsPro and put the dryer back together.

It still runs but produces no heat.

The high limit thermostat has continuity (goes to element).
The control thermostat has continuity between two terminals and 28 kohms between the other two terminals which matches the schematic (goes to element).
The thermal limiter has continuity (goes to motor?)

I went over the control logic and tested the controls. Everything produced the correct answers.

The only other possibility I see is the switch that appears to be in the motor that goes to the heating element. Any way to test it? What are the chances it went bad along with the element?

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...s-for-gib-ger331cs0.html

Thanks in advance,
Kevin