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The motor is bad. The repair cost is more than the value of the washer. Going to buy a new one. Thank you for all of your help Eric. You are great and have so much knowledge -and- you are willing to help!
I really appreciate all that you did to help me determine the cause of my failure.
Thank you and hats off to you...
Ron
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The timer arrived today, so I installed it, and it behaves exactly like it did with the old timer (it makes a buzzing sound - and the motor won't start). I will need to take the belt off and try to start it by hand so I can get some voltage measurements (in a spin cycle).
I will post the measurements after I get them.
I was really hoping that replacing the timer would fix it. It seemed to make sense, but now I am not sure what to think.
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Yes, that's a little odd. If you buy the timer from APP and it doesn't fix the problem, you may return it. Keep us posted.
Eric
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Thank you for your patience and your help in the troubleshooting!
I wonder why the timer would fail at the same time as my replacing the transmission. They don't seem to have a relationship with each other.
Anyways, thank you thank you thank you, Eric!
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You are right. Because I didn't have the spin basket in or the belt attached to the transmission, I guess it wasn't clear if it was agitating or spinning, then when I realize that the water was still in the tub, it was apparent that it must have been agitating. Here are the new readings with the motor spinning during a spin cycle, measuring to ground: Hot Red / Black - to Timer 115.8 VAC
Yellow / Black - Timer to Pressure Switch 115.3 VAC
Brown - Pressure Switch to Timer 115.2 VAC
Dark Blue - Timer to Motor 23.42 VAC
Red - Timer to Capacitor 23.7 VAC
Red - Capacitor to Motor 24.8 VAC
Neutral White / Red - to Lid Switch 5.43 VAC
Orange - Lid Switch to Motor 6.51 VAC
Yellow - Motor 7.99 VAC
Violet / White - Motor 7.94 VAC
Sorry for the erroneous readings before. I really do appreciate your helping me on this. Looking at these readings, I want to jump to the conclusion that I am losing my voltage inside of the timer (between brown and dark blue), but I see that there are three nodes at that point (M6 at the motor, R16 before the capacitor, and R21 before the motor switch(?)), any of which could possibly have a role in this? Thank you again for helping me on this. Ron
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If the tub has enough water in it, the pressure switch is going to be in the other position making yellow/black to violet, not yellow/black to brown. Did you have the washer in spin mode or agitation? Feel like we are getting nowhere. I won't be around the rest of the day but will check back in tonight.
Eric
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With the motor running, I took these measurements to ground: Hot Red / Black to Timer 116.4 VAC
Yellow / Black Timer to Pressure Switch 115.6 VAC
Brown Pressure Switch to Timer 5.8 VAC
Red Timer to Capacitor / Motor 7.69 VAC
Neutral White / Red to Lid Switch 4.79 VAC
Orange Lid Switch to Motor 5.31 VAC
Yellow from Motor 7.21 VAC
Violet / White 20.75 VAC
So I see a problem at the pressure switch if the brown wire is supposed to be returning the voltage sent by the yellow / black wire when the switch is made. Since the tub still had water in it, after I was finished taking my measurements, I disconnected the power, and read the resistance across the pressure switch (yellow / black to brown) and I read 1091 ohms. When I look at the measurements on the neutral side, I am not sure what it is telling me. Looking at the diagram, there were a couple of places that it wasn't too clear (to me) on the wire color ( like coming from the timer bus a wire comes out, then splits, one side going to R16, and the other side going to M6 - in which case I got the measurement on the red wire going to the capacitor). That is why I included with my measurements, the location that I took my reading. If there are any that I didn't read at the correct location, let me know which ones, and I will take new measurements. Again, I really appreciate your helping me with this. Thanks, Ron
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Yes, the motor should be spinning. A motor that is powered but will not start rotating draws very high current. That's not good for the motor nor for the wiring and switch contacts that supply that current. The thermal overload switch must be closed, otherwise there is no current flow at all. We must check voltages with the washer under load, i.e. running normally.
Eric
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Ok, I will do this tonight when I get back home. Thanks again for your help on this. Just for clarification, does the motor actually have to be spinning, or does it just have to be asked to start, and with respect to the thermal protection, does that need to be closed when I am taking my measurements?
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