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Hi Denman,
Thanks for your help, I just got off chat with Danny, I ordered the new control board. I'm adding this site to my favorites!
John
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See the attachment for your tech sheet.
Force a defrost, see the tech sheet.
Be sure that the defrost thermostat is frozen.
If the defrost heater comes on then replace the control board.
If the heater does not come on.
Check the defrost heater, should be around 25 ohms.
Check the defrost thermostat should be 0 ohms when frozen and about 56,000 ohms when unfrozen.
Use your correct meter scale so you get actual resistance readings.
Short the meter leads together before starting so that you can see if there is a zero offset in the meter.
Also it is a good idea to unplug at least one side of any part you are measuring for resistance. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit.
If both OK then as a double check you could check the heater/thermostat combo at P1- 3 to P1-2 at the control board.This will check the parts and the wiring.
If both parts are OK then replace the control board.
Note that if the defrost thermostat is deformed/bulged replace it even if it measures OK.
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Hi Guys, I tried to post earlier and lost the post (I was not logged in)... If this repeats.. I apologize.
I have a Kenmore side by side, ice and water in the door that will not defrost. I had a spare bimetal from a previous service call that I put in hoping to solve the issue, no luck. I tested this spare ( its new) with freeze off spray and the circuit opened and closed. I tried bypassing the bimetal hoping to see red on the heating coil, It stayed cold. I put my ohm meter on the 2 leads of the heating coil and got a reading.
What else can I check to identify the bad part that is not letting my freezer goto defrost? Could my problem be the control board? What other tests can I do?
Thanks for any help you can give, -John
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