|
|
Actually, the type of timer used in the OP's dryer is a piece of junk and is a very high failure item in these low end late model dryers. They fail all the time. Other types of timers are very robust and can last for a very long time. My Maytag electric dryer is 28 years old and the timer has never been replaced. When I see that junk timer in an electric dryer with a heat problem, that's the first thing I check so I don't waste any time. It is a high failure item.
Eric
|
|
|
Perhaps, but still relevant, and the part about replacing the timer is one that, while quite rare, would've saved me a bit of cash and I wanted to share that with anyone else trying to repair a rather common dryer configuration, but thanks for your input.
|
|
|
That post is from over a year ago.
|
|
|
While I'm no repair professional in this arena, I am capable and build and repair automated equipment. That being said, check the heating element and all your temperature control parts(all three thermostats) with a multimeter with power off and the meter on the ohms scale. The heating element should read 10 ohms and the thermostats should all read zero ohms. The cycling thermostat has two sets of tabs, and you'll be testing the outer tabs. If all are good, remove the heating element and ensure that there are no fractures that could manifest when heated and expanded. If all are still good, order a timer and replace it. The timer contacts are not designed to give many years of service, and in fact are quite light duty for the current that passes through them and they burn out after about 7 years. I hope this helps someone looking for answers, as some of the stuff I found was a bit incomplete and focused on the heating element. Good luck!
|
|
|
Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WED5100VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. When you cannot get it to heat. Leave the settings where they are and unplug the unit. Then check that C to A on the timer is 0 ohms. Use your most sensitive meter scale. Also short the meter leads together before startin so you can see if there is any zero offset in the meter. If the above is OK check the operating and the hi-limit thermostats, both should be 0 ohms.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
Any help would be appreciated. When I put the clothes in and turn the dryer on sometimes it will blow hot. Other times it blows cold. I cleaned out the vent and any lint. If I take the low medium and high heat control and go back and forth then turn the timer to very dry cycle it will finally heat up. Although if I start it in the same settings many times it won't heat up. Thank you for any input.
|
