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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
mrtedeby Posted: Sunday, December 8, 2013 1:18:43 PM(UTC)
 
I super glued it, we'll see how long it lasts. If nothing else, at least now I have confidence I'm buying the right part if I need to purchase a timer a couple days down the road. Thanks again for your time.
denman Posted: Sunday, December 8, 2013 8:15:45 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="Blue"]but that leads to my next question, what are the odds of finding that plastic ring?[/COLOR]
Slim and none and slim is being very very optimistic.
Would probably cost you thousands in time and effort calling repair shops to see if the have a bad timer the same as yours so you can cannibalize it or hours and hours of rummaging through appliance dump sites for a unit the same as yours.
You cannot get this part from the manufacturer.

[COLOR="Blue"]It's going to kill me to spend $70 for a new timer because a little tab broke off a little plastic wheel that can't cost the manufacturer 12 cents to make. [/COLOR]
I would bite the bullet and spend the money as long as the unit is in good shape.

[COLOR="Blue"]I guess I could also try super glue..[/COLOR]
I have never had much long term luck with superglue on plastics but that could be just the type of plastic that I was trying to repair.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
mrtedeby Posted: Sunday, December 8, 2013 7:14:13 AM(UTC)
 
I took my current (non-working) timer apart for the heck of it, and discovered three plastic rings with various bumps on them, as they turn they push and release little arms that have contacts out on the ends. Anyway, the third ring has a tiny little tab broken off, so it falls out of position on the shaft and stops pushing on the contact arms as it's supposed to. To test this, I put the ring back in position, very carefully put the timer back together, plugged it in, and presto the dryer works. I understand the next time an ant walks past the dryer, the vibration will make the ring fall off the shaft again.. but that leads to my next question, what are the odds of finding that plastic ring? It's going to kill me to spend $70 for a new timer because a little tab broke off a little plastic wheel that can't cost the manufacturer 12 cents to make. I guess I could also try super glue..
mrtedeby Posted: Friday, December 6, 2013 3:12:24 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks, I'll keep you posted
denman Posted: Friday, December 6, 2013 1:01:00 PM(UTC)
 
Here are your parts
Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram
[COLOR="Blue"]
So my questions are, have I performed the timer test properly?[/COLOR]
Cannot say for sure but you should see 0 ohms here when in any running mode.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Is this conclusive evidence that the timer is bad?[/COLOR]
Yes
[COLOR="Blue"]
Anything else I should check before ordering a new timer[/COLOR]
No, you have to replace the timer first.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
mrtedeby Posted: Friday, December 6, 2013 4:54:50 AM(UTC)
 
One more quick detail, the timer part number is W10185972.

Thanks again
mrtedeby Posted: Friday, December 6, 2013 4:51:48 AM(UTC)
 
Hi everybody,

The dryer was working perfectly, now it won't start at all. No noise or anything when you hit the start button. So far:

I confirmed 120/240/120 where the power cord connects to the dryer, then unplugged the dryer.
Start button has continuity when pressed.
Door switch has continuity when closed.

Next I started looking at the timer. With the dryer unplugged, and the timer completely removed/unplugged, there is no continuity between terminals B and C (or any of the other terminals in that cluster) with the dial in any of the timed dry settings.

So my questions are, have I performed the timer test properly? Is this conclusive evidence that the timer is bad? Anything else I should check before ordering a new timer? Just wanted some reassurance since they're $60 or $70.

Thanks, Ted