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Please know that it is not a bother at all, I am here to help, that is why I am here! One thing you may be able to check are the solder connections on the control board. It is already broken, so if you are interested, you may be able to disassemble that control and get a look at the side of the board where the solder connections are. You very well may find a poor connection that you could possibly solder and avoid the expense of replacing the range! It may be worth a look if you have some spare time. If you decide to do that, just be sure to unplug the range before any disassembly. Also, please do not hesitate to post back with any questions or concerns, I am here to help you!
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Originally Posted by: Appliance Ninja  I totally understand, it does not make economic sense to invest that much into the range. I agree with the decision to replace it. Happy Thanksgiving! MORE PEOPLE NEED TO RECOGNIZE HOW YOUR KNOWLEDGE CAN RESOLVE APPLIANCE ISSUES AND ALSO THE VAST AMOUNT OF PEOPLE NEED TO ACKNOWLEDGE THE EXPERSTISE IN THE AREAS NEEDED TO RESOLVE THESE PROBLEMS. ANYWAY, I REALLY AM IMPRESSED. THANK YOU. I DON'T MEAN TO TAKE ANY ADVANTAGE. THERE WAS THE POSSIBILITY OF ORDERING THE PART(S). I HAVE TO BE SURE AS I AM NOT ABLE TO WORK AT THIS TIME AND UNSURE OF A PAYCHECK (HOPEFULLY) FOR PARTS. MAY HAVE TO SEE THE PEOPLE AT SALVATION ARMY. ANYWAY THANK YOU AND AM SORRY TO PESTERT YOU FOR SOLUTIONS.
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I totally understand, it does not make economic sense to invest that much into the range. I agree with the decision to replace it. Happy Thanksgiving!
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ONGOING PROBLEMS WITH OVEN BUT NINJA HELPED VERY
well. I HAVE EXHAUSTED ALL POSSIBILITIES, and a new oven is really the only answer rather than new parts for a 14 year old stove. I hope NINJA will understand. "We" tried to resolve the problems.
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NINJA has been really helping me on this. I have tried everything
Thank you Ninja and Happy Thanksgiving. But anyway. The control panel is 330.00 need igniter 40.00 NEW STOVE is 399.00 at Sears
Can't justisfy putting in money like this in stove that is 14 yrs old.
We tried, NINJA. This is a number 1 site for answers. And why should
the experts answer our questions? "We" mean nothing to them but
they still help tremendously and quickly. NINJA has really helped in my situations and anyone getting answers need to give NINJA a HAPPY THANKSGIVING for the expertise on your subjects.
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Here's what I did. Oven was turned on BAKE. I used the test light on the igniter wire and went to a metal ground. Did NOT read 120VAC. The oven valve wires are showing 120V.
Just for heck of it, tried this on broiler igniter wire and get 120VAC when the BROILER was turned on. I think I followed your directions correctly.
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Sorry to hear about your nightmare! Let's see what we can find. The line voltage to your igniter comes from the oven control and the neutral comes from the gas valve. So, we need to determine if we are losing the line voltage or the neutral to see what component may be faulty. Can you turn the oven on and test the wire that is not coming from the gas valve, testing from the igniter wire to any metal surface (ground), please? Do you read 120 VAC?
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Was getting volts to igniter and now is not suddenly. This is to the lower oven burner. Broiler works fine. I do need the igniter for sure.
All I have is a 120v test light. Tapping on the regulator valve would start the oven going when I put the BAKE button on. I am getting all
confused about this and running out of time for Thanksgiving.
It's beginning to look like the turkey (or ham) will have to be cooked in the smoker/cooker grill outside and eliminate the oven.
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