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I would remove the fountain board and look for ice damage or a loose connector.
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Originally Posted by: richappy  Go to ******************************** to get the pictures of your fridg. You will probably find the thermistor attached to the damper wiring. You can use the evaporator thermistor part # to order the thermistor, but you will need to splice it in the damper harness. Thanks, you have been a big help. Another question please. The control board for water/ice through the door is not working now after turning off breaker to fridge and turning it back on. Any suggestions except to replace that expensive board? I took power off again to see if that would restore the board but it did not. It has had periods of no response previously and always came back.
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Go to ******************************** to get the pictures of your fridg. You will probably find the thermistor attached to the damper wiring. You can use the evaporator thermistor part # to order the thermistor, but you will need to splice it in the damper harness.
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Originally Posted by: richappy Take the cover off the damper in the fridg section. If door is wide open, verify it is not stuck open. If ok, stuff a wad of duck tape in to force it 1/4 open, then run fridg. If your fridg temp comes down to normal levels, you probably have a bad control module (67005397 The other possibility is a bad thermistor probably near the damper. You will need a meter to check, or just replace it with a new one. Thanks for your reply. I got the cover off and found ice holding the door open. I got it out and it seems to be working fine now. I had called about getting just a thermistor from sears and they said my model didn't list one. She could not tell me if that was part of the piece they had listed on the parts page that cost almost $50. Thermistors are much cheaper. Do you know it my model doesn't have a separate thermistors? Just for future reference in case I do finally need one. Sammie
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Take the cover off the damper in the fridg section. If door is wide open, verify it is not stuck open. If ok, stuff a wad of duck tape in to force it 1/4 open, then run fridg. If your fridg temp comes down to normal levels, you probably have a bad control module (67005397 The other possibility is a bad thermistor probably near the damper. You will need a meter to check, or just replace it with a new one.
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Previously the refrig part would start to freeze food after a power outage or surge. I would turn off the circuit to the unit and turn it back on and everything would go back to normal. That started over a year ago. Now that "fix" is not working as it did. I gave the coils a much deserved cleaning yesterday with no effect. Each time I flip the breaker, it does still have some effect on the temp but is not lasting. Just did it as freezer read 0 and fridge read 26. Freezer now says 5 and fridge 30 and it was too soon for it to come up 5 degrees by itself.
Any help would be appreciated as we live way out in boonies and takes a Sears tech coming from TN. Not in warranty so if I can get guidance I think I can fix it. I have the repair parts list. My son suggested the elec control on the damper may need changing but why would turning it off and back on affect the temp. if it was that.
Sammie from NC
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