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Which new washer are you looking at? The problem with new ones is that they have water/power restrictions due to government regulations. Many people are very unhappy with them due to the very low water levels that are used and the tiny amount of HE detergent that must be used. I have an 11 year old GE and have replaced the motor and transmission and will continue to do repairs on it if necessary as I refuse to by the junk they are selling today. Your choice of course, just be aware and do some research. I like this womans take on it. The Curse of Government Washing Machines –Eric
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Ok..It's the motor. Getting 120 volts to it.
One leg must be open. It doesn't appear the windings are shorted because the pulley shaft off the motor spins when it's humming and I suspect if the windings were shorted the magnetic field would seize the motor.
The motor gets warm right away (hot to the touch)
Sadly, there's not a repair shop in the area (of Buffalo NY if you can believe) that works on these (appliance motors in general, washer motors specific)
The GE Apparatus devision which gave me the outlandish quote e-mailed me to let me know they don't do bench testing locally. Unit would have to be sent out to be checked..hence the cost.
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I'm no electrical repairman and I called for a quote on troubleshooting/repair of the existing motor..forgetaboutit.
It's a 12 year old washer that-till now (save the lid switch which-following the failure of the replacement switch I simply bypassed 2 years ago..yes I checked that first thing)has run reliably.
On line quote for the motor is $283.00
On line quote for a brand new washer delivered and set up $389.
Just got back in and am going to check the voltage to the motor (if i can access the wires easily enough..) after checking to see if the motor will start without a load (belt removed) If the motor isn't getting 120v I'll have to back track thru the wiring/components
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Sounds like you may not be getting 120vac to the start winding. Without that, the motor will just hum and then the motor overload will trip. With the belt off, as soon as the motor starts humming, spin the pulley by hand as fast as you can to see if it will start. The motor has a centrifugal switch in it for the start winding which may be faulty. The replacement motor is very expensive and is totally different than the original motor which is no longer available. The new type motor comes as a kit with new wiring harness and capacitor that must be installed. If the original motor has a faulty start switch, it might be repairable. Iv'e done a couple of them. It's easier to just put the washer in spin mode rather than to have to fill it for the pressure switch to operate for agitate mode.
Eric
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Eric: I'll go thru the connections tomorrow In addition I'll remove the belt and see if the motor engages when the fill stops.
Once the pressure switch reaches the limit it closes the connection to the motor I believe.
I'm also going to check the leads to the motor for 120vac when the fill switch is closed.
I've checked the price on a new motor and a new washer of the same model is $40. more so that will put that to bed if it is.
Were the system 3 phase I'd suspect a faulty leg given the 'hum/click' sound when the tub level has been reached.
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Since it fills but does not spin, I don't suspect the pressure switch as the switch must be in the empty position for both fill or spin and fill is working. Could be the timer or the motor. Unplug the washer, place in spin mode, timer knob out (on). Check for continuity (zero ohms) between hot of power plug (narrow blade) and motor connector (unplugged) blue wire and red wire. Check continuity between neutral of power plug (wide blade) and motor connector orange, yellow and violet/white. On motor receptacle, check ohms between where red and violet/white connect, should be about 4.6 ohms and check between where blue and yellow connect, should be about 1.5 ohms.
Eric
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Washer was working this afternoon.
Lid switch is ok. There is NO fuse in line in the lid switch.
The transmission works via manually spinning the drive belt (agitate or spin)
The tub fills to the correct level and one can hear an electronic hum then what appears to be a clicking off.
This hum /click off does not occur when the machine is draining and the spin cycle should begin.
I'm wondering if this is the motor or if this is a bad fill switch (which sends a signal to the motor once the correct level is reached.)
Figure I'll go thru everything I can before calling for a repair guy.
Washer is a GE Model WVSR1060A1WW
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