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Glad you found the problem.
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Originally Posted by: richappy  Very strange you have voltage to the icemaker when the optics are blocked.
The other wires go to the water valve in the back. Started over, checking everything for continuity and voltage. The inline fuse black wire on the icemaker was dead. swapped with old harness. I now have ice. Thankyou
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Very strange you have voltage to the icemaker when the optics are blocked.
The other wires go to the water valve in the back.
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Originally Posted by: msteve Don't know, Bought one of the cheaper oem im on line. They have whirlpool numbers and stickers on box and part. You suspect I may have bought a rebuilt or repro? I have voltage to the ice maker all the time even if the optics are blocked. If this is the case. Shouldn't there be another line to tell the icemaker to cycle.White is neutral,what do the other two wires control?
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Originally Posted by: richappy Your optics must be working if you have voltage to the icemaker black and white wires at it's connector. Suspect a bad icemaker, did it come in a factory sealed box? Don't know, Bought one of the cheaper oem im on line. They have whirlpool numbers and stickers on box and part. You suspect I may have bought a rebuilt or repro?
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Your optics must be working if you have voltage to the icemaker black and white wires at it's connector. Suspect a bad icemaker, did it come in a factory sealed box?
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Originally Posted by: msteve Still have 120v at the harness just no volts at L/N . Should there always be volts in harness bk/w when im switch is off? There was a lot of ice in the freezer and some behind optics cover from water spray(week ago). could something there be wrong? which wire tells the icemaker to run?
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Originally Posted by: richappy Remove the optics board with the relay and put a wire jumper between the black/white wire and black wire going to the connector.
If icemaker now works, you may have bad optics, or bad wiring between them.
If it still does not work, you probably have a bad icemaker, you should have 115 volts at the line voltage monitor pins behind the cover. Still have 120v at the harness just no volts at L/N . Should there always be volts in harness bk/w when im switch is off?
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Remove the optics board with the relay and put a wire jumper between the black/white wire and black wire going to the connector.
If icemaker now works, you may have bad optics, or bad wiring between them.
If it still does not work, you probably have a bad icemaker, you should have 115 volts at the line voltage monitor pins behind the cover.
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whirlpool 2198597 ice maker trouble. Started a week ago with a wet freezer and wet floor coming from icemaker. Apparently stuck in cycle. The tech said it was the icemakers fault. I replaced the unit and it would cycle but no water. I checked the solenoid and ice side was dead. I replaced the water solenoid. I jumped at the terminals and had water flow. Still no ice. Has the icemaker failed again? There's continuity between l & m, l & h ok, no luck jump between t & h, No voltage between l & n ,wire harness 120 v. Freezer temp 2 degree.
Optics are classic 2blinks, or solid with led door shut. The wire harness bk and white has 120 volts whether the im switch is on or off. Is that right? I need some help.
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