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You are welcome.
Simon.
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Thank you very much, Simon! I thought I had checked the Thermal Limiter before, but I must have done something wrong. I jumped the connectors and she heated right up. 5:00 on a Friday is a bad time to realize such a mistake.
Thanks again!
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If you read .02ohms when the motor is running the switch is OK.
All the thermostats and fuses in the dryer are NC.You should read continuity.
Simon.
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The Thermal Limiter, is it normally open or closed?
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I must be missing something. It read .02ohms. OL when not running. I first thought it was the Cycling Thermostat, so I changed it out.
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Yes, you are correct.
Simon.
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Thanks, Simon.
I assume that the motor contacts 1M-2M are the red wires, if I am reading the wiring diagram correctly and that the motor must be running to check for a closed circuit?
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Hi. OK, if you checked operating thermostat, thermal fuse, hi-limit, thermal cut off and heating element and they all good only two things left. It's the motor contacts 1M-2M (they should be closed when motor runs) and the timer. To check the timer set it to Timed Regular and check continuity between BK-R and TM-BY. No continuity - replace the timer Part number: W10113761
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Dryer will not heat on any setting but blower runs. I have 220V at terminal block (110 on each feed to center and 220 from outside feeds). All thermostats and thermal fuse have continuity as well as hi-limit switch. The heating element reads 11ohms.
I checked all thermostat continuity with a wire disconnected.
One of the things that I found while testing continuity, one of the leads on the push switch to start the dryer {not sure if I am saying this correctly} has continutiy to the chassis/ground.
Any hints?
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