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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Joe / APP Team Posted: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 10:22:49 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
Joe,
It ended up being a burned compressor. Thanks for all your help. I learned a lot. Unfortunately, the outcome was fatal.
Leo:(


That's a shame. But, better now than later.
Leo3030 Posted: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 9:26:02 AM(UTC)
 
Joe,
It ended up being a burned compressor. Thanks for all your help. I learned a lot. Unfortunately, the outcome was fatal.
Leo:(
Joe / APP Team Posted: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:14:23 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
Joe,
The overload was burned up (probably the smell) and I bought a 3 n 1 Supco product to replace the overload and start relay. I hooked up all three compressor wingdings from the Supco. It called for 2 line hook ups. I figured one was for the blue wire/black wire going to the compressor fan. I am not sure where to connect the other line wire. The only wires left over were from the return side of the compressor fan and were originally hooked on the start relay but there is no voltage there. Any help with the second line wire?
Leo


Leo, A 3 in 1 kit, will probably keep you going for now. Most manufacturers recommend you avoid these type kits and components. Without any wiring information for the 3 in 1 kit, we can't really recommend how or where the wiring attaches. The Blue wire is L1 (120 VAC into the compressor, from the defrost timer. The black wire from the condenser fan motor is an L1 power source, after the fan motor, and usually would attach to the capacitor, but you're not going to have a capacitor, anymore. The capacitor should be internal to the 3 in 1 kit.

The attached wiring diagram should help you out in wiring the kit into the system, between the two (instructions and diagram) you should be up and running soon.
Leo3030 Posted: Sunday, May 12, 2013 7:16:52 PM(UTC)
 
Joe,
The overload was burned up (probably the smell) and I bought a 3 n 1 Supco product to replace the overload and start relay. I hooked up all three compressor wingdings from the Supco. It called for 2 line hook ups. I figured one was for the blue wire/black wire going to the compressor fan. I am not sure where to connect the other line wire. The only wires left over were from the return side of the compressor fan and were originally hooked on the start relay but there is no voltage there. Any help with the second line wire?
Leo
Joe / APP Team Posted: Friday, May 10, 2013 10:09:00 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
Will do. Thanks again.


You're Welcome !! Keep in touch
Leo3030 Posted: Friday, May 10, 2013 5:35:06 AM(UTC)
 
Will do. Thanks again.
Joe / APP Team Posted: Friday, May 10, 2013 5:31:31 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Joe for the last update. I will let you know how this fix goes. I guess the last thing left now is the compressor if one of these two do not take care of it.


Leo, Correct, you'll need to check the compressor motor winding resistances
(the next to last paragraph) and you'll need to check for a closed circuit from each compressor terminal to the compressor case, a closed circuit would indicate a shorted winding.

Check and make sure there is 120 VAC (careful here, live voltage)on the blue wire, between the condenser fan motor and the compressor overload, it could be a loose or broken wire.
Leo3030 Posted: Friday, May 10, 2013 5:07:27 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks Joe for the last update. I will let you know how this fix goes. I guess the last thing left now is the compressor if one of these two do not take care of it.
Joe / APP Team Posted: Thursday, May 9, 2013 1:52:59 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: Leo3030 Go to Quoted Post
812855]Thanks, Joe. I had checked the heater coil and it is good. How do I check the compressor overload?:)


Leo, The overload

Part number: AP4303874
Part number: AP4303874


is similar to a thermostat.and should read a "closed" circuit across the terminals, at room temperature. Another easy check is to remove and shake it, if it rattles, it's faulty.

The start relay

Part number: AP4000197
Part number: AP4000197


should have a resistance reading of 4 to 6 ohms across terminals 2 and 3, when tested with the meter and power removed to the refrigerator. Make sure you label any wires you disconnect, it'll make things easier in the long run.
The compressor motor wingdings should have a resistance of 1.5 to 2.0 ohms resistance for the Run winding, and 8.0 to 9.0 ohms resistance for the start winding.
The start/run capacitor (if applicable) when you place the meter probes across the terminals, should deflect towards a "closed" circuit, momentarily then return to an "open" circuit.
Leo3030 Posted: Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:11:14 PM(UTC)
 
812855]Thanks, Joe. I had checked the heater coil and it is good. How do I check the compressor overload?:)