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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
FredericS	Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:36:21 AM(UTC)
	That's a good thought, as the problem initially manifested itself due to an electrical storm. Incidentally, with he spring weather we had one last night and I was worried about the fridge circuit board. So far all seems OK. I will go to Lowes today before he next storm hits. Thanks again for all your help
denman	Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 2:28:12 AM(UTC)
	Sounds like you found the problem but only time will tell. I will keep my fingers crossed. One thing you may want to consider is to get a 1,000 joule surge protector for the fridge especially if you have power outages or if the fridge is not on it's own line. These are available at Home Depot etc.
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FredericS	Posted: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 2:06:19 PM(UTC)
	Just wanted to update you. I replaced the board and ran the unit for two days at he default setting 0 F freezer and 38F fridge. After the second day things some things froze. Than I set the thermostat to the highest settings in both the freezer 5F & 40F in the. Fridge and the temps are now within a normal range and nothing freezes in the fridge and the freezer seems good to go as well. It has been 3 or 4 days now and all seems fine. I guess the first replacement board was bad, as he compressors never did go on. Let me know way you think Thanks
FredericS	Posted: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 5:46:50 AM(UTC)
	Thank you for the comprehensive detailing. Let's see what happens with the new board. Based on what you said it looks like a good prospect. When I checked the damper, I looked to be sure it was blowing air. I did not check to see that it was sticky or stuck. Maybe I should follow up on that too. Thanks again, I should be receiving the new board soon. I'll let you know how it works out. So far the fridge is holding a constant temp (although too cold) it is not freezing anything just yet.
denman	Posted: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 1:27:18 AM(UTC)
	I'm sorry, I don't know what it looks like, so can't identify he part to test. See below click on the picture for more info. According to the wiring diagram there should be two of them. One for the fresh food and one for the freezer. I can only find one of them in the parts breakdown item 5 in the Refrigerator Liner section. Looks like they plug into P4 on the board. [COLOR="Blue"] The sat 24 hrs it has been ok running at 34 degrees consistently. [/COLOR] This is too cold it should hold the fresh food section around 40 degrees F. Before that, the thermometer was in ice water. So I had to turn it off overnight. The pattern is it can work ok for a while and then it will go too cold and freeze everything or at other times go too warm and spoil the food. [COLOR="Blue"] Also when I removed the control board I noticed there was a lead not plugged to anything...what is that for?[/COLOR] I do not know. I cannot see the part side of the board good enough to make out the plug designations. Something is either wrong with the wiring diagram or the parts breakdown as the diagram shows 2 thermistors but in the breakdown I can only find one. According to the wiring diagram P1 is for defrost parts, air baffle position switch, compressor and it's fan and power to the board. P2 is for the lights, evaporator fan, air baffle motor and ice maker P4 is for the thermistors. The thermistors do go bad but it is very, very rare that they will go intermittent which your would have to do to give the symptoms you describe. I am still leaning towards you received a bad replacement board. Or the replacement board and the thermistor are bad. Part number: AP3745265 I was able to find a chart for the thermistor resistances. It is for a different fridge but the thermistors are the same Temperature F / Resistance(Ohm) 77.0 / 2700 50.0 / 5348 45.0 / 6033 40.0 / 6989 35.0 / 7916 32.0 / 8750 Freezing point 30.2 / 9216 25.0 / 10483 20.0 / 12269 15.0 / 14019 10.0 / 16497 5.0 / 19474 0. 0 / 22417 –5.0 / 27402 –10.0 / 31717 –15.0 / 37922 Yes it may be time to get in a pro. I can only summarize what I think. The unit gets too cold. That tells you that the compressor/sealed system is OK. In your original post you said you checked the damper so it is opening and closing (not stuck). So in my opinion it is a temperature control issue and the only parts that do this is the control board and the thermistors. The control board is more likely to go intermittent.
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FredericS	Posted: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 6:14:49 AM(UTC)
	I'm sorry, I don't know what it looks like, so can't identify he part to test. Is this an expensive part, if not I can just replace it. FYI: I had my fridge repaired last summer after a thunderstorm that knocked out the relay in the fridge. It would not turn on, after he replaced he relay the fridge would not turn the compressor off...I seemed and the freezing started happening. When I complained he said it was good it was working. So his is why I am troubleshooting it myself. The power surge may have affected something else. The sat 24 hrs it has been ok running at 34 degrees consistently. Before that, the thermometer was in ice water. So I had to turn it off overnight. The pattern is it can work ok for a while and then it will go too cold and freeze everything or at other times go too warm and spoil the food. I'm researching another repair place in town, as I need a back up plan if I can't fix the Robles myself. Let me know about the thermistor. Also when I removed the control board I noticed there was a lead not plugged to anything...what is that for? One other thing, he button that you push to do max cold does not light up on the original board ( which is installed does that indicated anything). It did on the new replacement board ( which did not work ) Thanks
denman	Posted: Monday, May 13, 2013 7:35:19 AM(UTC)
	I would disconnect them at the control board and then measure their resistance. Below is a chart of typical values. I do not have a chart you your specific devices. http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=thermistor%20resistance&source=web&cd=9&sqi=2&ved=0CGgQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2F www.preconusa.com%2Foem%2Ftemperature%2FThermistor%2520temp-resist%2520chart.pdf&ei=kwaRUeLQOqbkyQHLxoDgBw&usg=AFQjCNF-fX9ZXgYTc17-zxc0NyBQVei9mw&cad=rja
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FredericS	Posted: Monday, May 13, 2013 7:10:07 AM(UTC)
	It sounded like the condenser was operating to me. The temp did drop a bit but not much, if I recall it went down to 55 and stayed there. Like I mentioned I put my hand near the vent and the ar did not seem that cold. I left that board in for approx 5 hrs. When I put in the old board back in to save the food. The temp went down pretty quickly to cold. How do I check the thermistor? Can you guide me to a link? FYI I ordered a replacement board in the event the new replacement board is defective. At least we can check that off the list when I try it.
denman	Posted: Monday, May 13, 2013 4:07:36 AM(UTC)
	I am still not sure what is going on here. With the replacement board you said that the compressor ran but the unit did not get cold enough and yet with the new board the compressor runs and it gets too cold. I am missing something here and for the life of me cannot figure out what it is. Did the evaporator/freezer fan run with the new board? If not you may have received a bad board. How long did you let it run with the new board installed? You should let it run for at least 24 hours to see if the temperatures will hit set point and stabilize. You could check the thermistors. The tech sheet says they should be about 2,700 ohms at room temperature.
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FredericS	Posted: Sunday, May 12, 2013 6:26:43 PM(UTC)
	After returning home, I checked he fridge and the temp was at approx 31 degrees. The thermometer in the glass has a film of ice on it. It seems the temp goes irrespective, regardless of what I set on the control panel. I set it higher for both the freezer and fridge compartments and checked it and it still stays the same, same 31 degrees. Any thoughts?

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