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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
sultan62 Posted: Monday, February 10, 2014 12:38:29 PM(UTC)
 
I just came back with another appliance question and realized I didn't respond to this thread. For that I apologize.

I don't have anything helpful to add to this thread, as I came across a functioning dishwasher that I could have for free provided I hauled it away, so I never did order an inlet valve or otherwise solve the issue with the old dishwasher. Thanks again for the help provided.
sultan62 Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 1:59:31 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks-I'll check it and post back.
denman Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 1:47:39 PM(UTC)
 
Yes.
Just because the solenoid coil has continuity does not mean that the plunger pulls down opening the orifice re: it could be a mechanical problem in the valve.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
sultan62 Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 12:20:51 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Since the fill valve has 120 volts across it when it should be filling. I am assuming this is what you mean by "Voltage: ~120V" and does not open.
I would replace the valve.


Even though the valve shows continuity?
denman Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 12:14:01 PM(UTC)
 
Since the fill valve has 120 volts across it when it should be filling. I am assuming this is what you mean by "Voltage: ~120V" and does not open.
I would replace the valve.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
sultan62 Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 10:08:39 AM(UTC)
 
I recently moved a Kenmore Dishwasher model no. 363.14589100 that worked fine, and after moving I cannot get the dishwasher to fill. I have checked the pressure right before the water inlet valve, and it is adequate. I have checked the screen filter at the water inlet valve, and have tested the valve for continuity as well as the wiring coming in to the valve for voltage. All of this appears to function correctly:

Voltage: ~120V
Resistance: ~1100Ω

If anyone has any tips, it would be appreciated. I'm getting tired of washing dishes by hand. :(