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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
this_is_nascar	Posted: Thursday, April 11, 2013 2:03:11 AM(UTC)
	OK, thanks. I'll see what I can do in a few days.
denman	Posted: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 4:25:55 AM(UTC)
	The Even Heat Control is the same as the control board. What they are saying is if the heater element is not grounded and the heat relay contacts are not welded together then this control board is activating the heat relay (48 volts across it's coil P3-1 to P3-2) when it should not.
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this_is_nascar	Posted: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 3:19:41 AM(UTC)
	Originally Posted by: denman Heating coil AP2947033 Relay AP3037419 Thermistor AP3919451 Control Board AP4319168 Thanks. What about the Even Heat Control Assembly. On page-3 of the doc, it talks about Problem: Dryer Heats During Air Fluff/No Heat Cycle. My dryer is doing that as well. It talks about replacing the Heater Relay and the Even Heat Control Assembly.
denman	Posted: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 1:46:20 AM(UTC)
	Heating coil AP2947033 Relay AP3037419 Thermistor AP3919451 Control Board AP4319168
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this_is_nascar	Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 3:10:44 PM(UTC)
	Originally Posted by: denman OK lets try to narrow it down without using a meter. If it is a heater problem often you can see the problem, either the coil has sagged and is toughing the case or has broken and one side of the break is touching the case. Pull the heater relay and see if it still heats up. If yes, then I would replace the heater. Note: This just checks one scenario of a grounded element so it does not totally eliminate the heater as the cause. Swapping the relays also does not require the use of a meter. OK, thanks. I'm trying to find all the parts you mention in the parts store link you provided. I can't seem to locate all of them.
denman	Posted: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 4:23:47 AM(UTC)
	OK lets try to narrow it down without using a meter. If it is a heater problem often you can see the problem, either the coil has sagged and is toughing the case or has broken and one side of the break is touching the case. Pull the heater relay and see if it still heats up. If yes, then I would replace the heater. Note: This just checks one scenario of a grounded element so it does not totally eliminate the heater as the cause. Swapping the relays also does not require the use of a meter.
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this_is_nascar	Posted: Monday, April 8, 2013 1:57:10 PM(UTC)
	Thanks. I really appreciate the reply, however I'm not that good with troubleshooting, checking ohms, voltages, etc. If I wanted to just go down the path of replacing parts, which parts would you recommend I replace and in what order?
denman	Posted: Monday, April 8, 2013 3:01:52 AM(UTC)
	Here are your parts Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11062952100 - AppliancePartsPros.com See the attachment for the tech sheet. You may have a grounded element. Unplug the unit and both wires at the heating element. Measure across the element should be 8 to 12 ohms. Then measure from each element connector to the machines frame, both should be infinite ohms. If not then the element is grounded and cannot be controlled. Be sure to use bare metal when testing or Neutral if it is a 3 wire hook up. If the element is OK, try swapping the motor and heater relays. I believe they are the same but double check this. If the unit starts up when you reconnect power to i, then the relay contacts are welded together and it needs replacing. If the relays are OK then it could be a thermistor or a control board problem.
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this_is_nascar	Posted: Sunday, April 7, 2013 3:29:37 PM(UTC)
	Pretty please :) .
this_is_nascar	Posted: Sunday, April 7, 2013 3:51:27 AM(UTC)
	Can any one of the experts please help me with this or offer up some suggestions? I'd really appreciate it.

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