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I removed the agitator and agitator coupler, but I found that the tub nut is a mess, with big chunks missing from the sides (see attached photo). It's hard to see how normal wear and tear could have done that; maybe this happened when the transmission was replaced several years ago. Anyway, a wrench can't get a grip on the nut. Can you suggest how to remove it? I guess I could skip replacing the tub seal, although it looks like the procedure wouldn't be that hard after getting the tub nut off.
One more question: Supposing I do get the nut off and replace the tub seal. Afterward, how tight would a new tub nut have to be? I'm thinking that it might be better not to have it super-tight, in case it ever has to come off again.
Thanks a lot for the help.
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Originally Posted by: bkbk  The drive belt does have a lot of give. Is there a way to tighten the belt (for example by moving the motor a bit) or does it have to be replaced?
I also plan to replace the tub seal. Do you carry the wrench for removing the tub nut? I would suggest replacing the belt. You can tighten the one you have by loosening the four motor nuts and pull the motor forward and re-tighten the nuts. Don't overtighten, bad for motor bearings. Here is the spanner wrench for the tub nut. Eric
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Hi,
I have a Hotpoint washer (model # VBXR1090DBWW) that does not aggitate regardless of load size.
It has been in storage for a year and a half and worked perfectly before. I am assuming by other posts that it could be the clutch (the belt looks brand new)
Can you explain how to replace the clutch and offer any other troubleshooting possibilities?
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We've been making do with the washer by just using it with medium loads, but that's starting to have problems with agitating and spinning too. The drive belt does have a lot of give. Is there a way to tighten the belt (for example by moving the motor a bit) or does it have to be replaced?
I also plan to replace the tub seal. Do you carry the wrench for removing the tub nut?
Thanks for all the help. -bk
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Originally Posted by: bkbk Spin cycle: the fan belt moved slowly even though the disk above it (between the belt and the motor -- is that the clutch?) was spinning quickly. The "disk" that the belt goes around is the pulley. The clutch is inside the pulley. If the pulley is spinning quickly but the belt is not, then the belt is slipping, not the clutch. You may just need a new belt, that's an older washer. As for the agitator, I would pull it and remove the agitator coupler to inspect the internal splines that mate with the agitator shaft splines. They may be stripping out in which case, you would need a new agitator coupler. The agitator just pops off. Place a strap under it and yank straight up on it. Remove the bolt to remove the coupler. Although it's a big job, I would replace the tub seal. Water leaking there can follow down the transmission housing into the lower transmission spin bearing and ruin it. Eric
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Hi, I'm back after doing a large load of laundry and making sure the washer was not overloaded. There were problems. Wash cycle: the center agitator moved back and forth slowly, the tub as a whole didn't agitate, and the fan belt varied in speed. Spin cycle: the fan belt moved slowly even though the disk above it (between the belt and the motor -- is that the clutch?) was spinning quickly.
Can you suggest a fix? The washer seems to work OK with a small or medium load and when there was no clothing in the large load.
Thanks.
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Hi.
There is a chance that the clutch is slipping with the heavier load.
Replacing the tub seal should stop the dripping. It's a time consuming job.
Simon.
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Simon,
I opened the front panel, set the load size to large, and started the washer with no clothing in it. The washer filled, agitated, drained, and spun, then I turned it off. So I guess the motor and clutch are OK (assuming the clutch is the part between the motor and drive belt). Was the agitation problem from overfilling and putting too much weight in the tub?
The only problem I noticed was that when water was in the tub, there was a constant drip coming from where the transmission shaft enters the tub through what looks like a rubber ring. Is there is a simple solution to that? If not, we could live with it.
Thx.
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