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Got continuity everywhere I should there. Sounds like I am on the look for a new washer. I really appreciate all of your time helping me with this Eric. Thank you!
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Check continuity between control board P7 (4 wires) and the motor connector and the blue wire on P9 and the motor connector.
Eric
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Any other way for me to confirm this? That is an expensive part so I may just have to get a new washer.
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You should have power across the wht/blk and blu wires at the same time that you have power across the red and yel wires. Seems your only getting power to the start winding and none to the high speed run winding. You should not allow this for longer than a couple seconds. The start winding and capacitor are only designed for intermittent power during the second or two that it takes for the motor to get up to speed. Once up to speed, the start circuit is opened by the centrifugal motor switch. Sounds like you have a bad control board if no power across wht/blk and blu.
Eric
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Realized my problem testing at the switch. 129.4 between red and yellow at the switch.
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117.5 between red and yellow at the control board, stays that way for a little while, then jumps into the 130's when the controller shuts off briefly, then back to 117.5 when it starts back up. How long should I let it go before switching to the other wire pair? I don't want to let it sit there humming for too long. The other wire pair has no voltage, at least during he first couple of minutes.
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Well, that's not making sense, the motor wouldn't be humming and getting hot with only 2 volts. You may not be making good contact with the test points. We usually use needle tip probes when doing this to get inside the connector or even to pierce the insulation of the wires to get good contact. You can try checking these voltages at the control board connector P9 if it's easier.
Eric
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Hooked the harness back up to the switch, measuring voltage by inserting the leads from the back side of the switch immediately after starting the drain/spin cycle. I'm only showing 2 volts for each of these wire pairs.
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You have to do it with the motor connected. You can't measure voltage drops without a load (current) on the circuit. Just be quick about it as you shouldn't leave the motor humming for long. Not good on the windings and start capacitor. Also, the white/black wire is neutral but only when connected to the motor. The actual neutral from the power plug is the white wire (gray on some models) which goes into the motor, through the overload switch and back out on the white/black wire to the timer.
Eric
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Ha! Good thing I asked about the water level switch. It looked like what was shown in some videos, I guess I misunderstood. Sounds like it wouldn't have made a difference anyway.
OK, I guess I need some guidance on how to check the voltages. I disconnected the wiring harness from the centrifugal switch and touched the leads of my multimeter to the appropriate slots in the harness and started a drain/spin cycle from the control board. I don't get any reading between blue and white/black or between red and yellow. I know there is something getting through there because otherwise the motor wouldn't hum. I should be reading around 120V~ on both of those connections at some point in the cycle, right? I've got a reading of around 124V~ at the wall socket.
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