Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Simon / APP Team Posted: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 1:30:31 PM(UTC)
 
It's my pleasure.

Have a great day.

Simon.
willow5000 Posted: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 11:39:20 AM(UTC)
 
Simon,

Thank you so much for your help.
I wish I knew as much as you do about this stuff.

Thanks,
Simon / APP Team Posted: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 11:28:39 AM(UTC)
 
Hello.

The two purple wires are for the tiny thermostat heater, not important in your case.
The BK-R contacts are closed when the timer is on to provide 120VAC to the heater leg.
DO NOT bypass the timer. It's NOT safe.

Simon.
willow5000 Posted: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 10:59:26 AM(UTC)
 
Simon,

Thank you so much for your detailed description - that really helped.
Well, the operating thermostat seems to be ok. However, mine has four wires attached to it, two red on the outside, which I can remove and test, and are ok. and two purple ones on the inside, but I cannot remove those, so don't know if those are ok, or not.

Second, I tested from R to BK and I get nothing... what I don't understand is that when turned on, the timer works just fine... so how is this causing the heat to not come on?
and this is a very expensive part, it might make more sense to just replace the dryer...:( :( :( ...
Is there a way to connect the wires together for the time being to make it run, until I can get a new dryer?

Thanks again
Simon / APP Team Posted: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 9:25:56 AM(UTC)
 
Hi.

The operating thermostat is called "cycling thermostat" on this chart

Part number: 3387134
Part number: 3387134


It's next to the thermal fuse.

In regards of the testing the timer:

Unplug the dryer, turn the timer ON timed-regular.
Remove the Red wire from the R contact from the back of the timer.
Use the multimeter to check the continuity between contacts marked BK and R. Replace the timer if there is no continuity.

The timer Part number: 3979618
Part number: 3979618


On the right side of the diagram I've posted there is a vertical column of the rest of the diagrams, just scroll up or down.

Thank you.

Simon.
willow5000 Posted: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 8:32:18 AM(UTC)
 
OK:
240VAC OK
Thermal fuse OK
Heater OK

Don't know where the operating thermostat is - the charts number parts but don't offer lists with names.

or how to check:
"With timer set to dry the contacts BK-R should be closed" :eek: :confused:

Could you give more detailed instructions or a different chart?

Thanks :)
Simon / APP Team Posted: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:12:42 PM(UTC)
 
HI.

Use the multimeter to check:
-If there is 240VAC to the dryer(best if you'll check at the connector block).
-With timer set to dry the contacts BK-R should be closed.
-Check the the continuity of the - heater, thermal fuse, operating thermostat.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Bulkhead parts for Whirlpool LER8648PW0 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Post the results.

Simon.
willow5000 Posted: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 10:51:32 AM(UTC)
 
Bought new heating element about 3 months ago. It worked great.
Now - no heat. It runs no problem, just doesn't heat.
After the heat went out, it came back the next day (but not as hot as usual), and today there is nothing at all.

What do I check? what could be the culprit?

thanks