Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
thunderfan Posted: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 7:50:33 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks for the reply. When I get home I'll close both the flapper and door switch and see what happens. I'm assuming a failed mold heater circuit requires replacement of the entire assembly?
richappy Posted: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 7:40:40 AM(UTC)
 
A common problem is a mold heater circuit failure and the icemaker can't enter harvest mode to scoop the ice out of the mold. If you close both flapper and door switch and the optics led shuts off, you probably have good optics and probably a bad icemaker. You can allways take the icemaker apart to confirm bad connections.
thunderfan Posted: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 6:47:16 AM(UTC)
 
Hey guys, I stumbled across this site last night when doing some searching after noticing my ice maker was no longer working. Looks like a great site here with tons of useful information, so I registered hoping someone could help me out. After doing some reading I believe the ice maker assembly itself is bad but I'm looking for some confirmation. Anyway, here are the details:

The fridge/freezer is about 5 1/2 years old. The ice and water dispenser in the door works fine. The ice tray currently contains ice but will not drop the cubes. The ice maker "on-off" switch on the right side is in "on" position. When the emitter flap door on the left side is pushed in, I get a solid red light. When the flap is not pushed in and is blocking the optics I get two blinks, pause, two blinks, pause, etc. The only thing I haven't tried is pushing in the emitter flap and the door switch to see what happens. Does that sound like a bad assembly to you guys?