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Can someone please tell me that how to install a thermal cutoff fuse kit in an electric dryer ?
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Thank you so much for the help SublimeMasterJW and ApplianceJunk! So far so good the dryer is heating again, thanks again, much appreciated!
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It does not matter. If that one keeps going out it is a sign of a stopped up vent Clogged outside vent
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Ok, here is a pic of the original thermal cutoff and the replacement that came with the kit. The original on the left as a left/right connector setup and the replacement a top/bottom setup. They are pictured exactly how the bolt to the dryer. The original had a red/white stripe wire connected to the left connect post and a solid red wire on the right connect post. My question is which of these wires connect to the top connect post and which connect to the bottom post of the new replacement? Or if it matters? 
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All you is doing is getting continuity out the limit. You cannot connect it backward but you want to make sure it does not ground to the frame or heat chamber. Sometimes you need the exact replacement to make it connect properly.
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Thanks for the pics and the response. I already have the parts I need and am in the process of installing them. My issue is my replacement thermal cutoff fuse differs slightly from the original in that its connectors are in an top/bottom fashion and the original are in a left/right setup. My question is in regards to the connecting wires, on the original fuse a red/white stripe wire connected to the left connector and a solid red wire to the right connector, now which of these wires should connect to the top connector and which to the bottom connector on the new fuse, or does it matter?
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Maybe these photos will help: 1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic) the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat. 2. Heater assembly. 7. Control thermostat(s). 5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run. 4. Heater element. Lets look closer at that heater assembly: The small limit on the top(300F) will blow if the duct is stopped up The bottom fuse is its cousin(250F), they are partners in crime. When one fails both are bad and both come in a kit. The dryer will however run even if these guys are open(bad). Clogged outside vent You will need to bust the dryer open to get to all of the lint, inspect the rollers and belt. Start by yanking out the filter. Remove those 2 phillips screws in the top of the filter housing so you can pop the top. Get the screws out that hold the front panel on. Important: lift UP the front panel to release the lower clips to prevent them from breaking! Get the drum out. Oil the rollers and idler assembly, Vacuum it all out real good. Oil the Idler using non-flammable, high temperature resistance, zoomspout oil. (ace hardware $3). Here is a good shot of how the belt ought to look all propah like: As you can see the belt goes between the idler . Insert the idler into the floor and yank upwards, loop the belt through the idler and over the motor pully. This creates tension. NOTE: If you have a friend hold the drum up for you while you install the belt it is much easier. Be sure the belt is not twisted or when you start the dryer the belt will be cut in two. Here is a DOT dryer manual that features moisture sensing control.:
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Hello, I am replacing the thermal cutoff fuse and high limit thermostat kit (Pt. #279769) and my replacement parts differ slightly from the original, namely the cutoff fuse. There are two wires a Red/white stripe and solid red that connect to the fuse but I am unsure which of these go to which connector on the new fuse. On the old fuse the connectors where in a left/right setup with the red/white wire on the left connector and red on the left. The new fuse the connectors are in a top/bottom setup with no markings. Anyone have an idea as to where the wires hookup to the new fuse, or does it matter??? Any replies greatly appreciated.
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