Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
stan568 Posted: Sunday, January 27, 2008 12:01:20 PM(UTC)
 
Gene,

I found what I need....I found a part number on the part to reference.

Thanks again!

Stan
stan568 Posted: Sunday, January 27, 2008 6:26:55 AM(UTC)
 
Gene,

The switch that I found open, the one I jumped and got the dryer to work, is not able to be found on the breakdown of parts. My particular combustion duct has two sensors on it.

One is flush mounted and mounted at approx at the 1-2 o'clock position on the duct while looking down the duct (this I believe to be the limit thermostat comparing to the pictures).

The faulty sensor is mounted at the 12 o'clock position, is mounted on a bracket that keeps it approx. 1 inch from the top of the duct, with a hole cut into the duct just below the sensor. The sensor and bracket are one piece and do not seperate from each other.

Any ideas which piece I need?

Thanks again Gene,

Stan
Gene Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:23:19 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Stan,

The heater thermostat should have some resistance, otherwise the dryer will work only on one temperature.

Gene.
stan568 Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2008 11:39:22 AM(UTC)
 
Hello Gene,

Thanks for your quick response. I, however wasn't able to make it to the dryer as soon as I wanted to...but I finally got to it today.

As you have posted in your other threads, the first thing I checked was the thermal fuse and found it open. I jumped the fuse, and BINGO, the dryer started!

I proceeded to check the remaining fuses/switches, and found the heater thermostat also to be open. Should that also have continuity? The dryer is running, but I don't have it hooked to gas to see if it heats. The heater thermostat is part #11 on the motor and fan schematic.

Thanks again for your help with this relatively simple fix!

Stan
Gene Posted: Friday, January 25, 2008 1:08:17 PM(UTC)
 
You are on the right way.

- Here are the break down diagrams for the Maytag dryer Model SDG4000AWW

Post you findings, please.

Gene.
stan568 Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2008 2:32:38 PM(UTC)
 
Hello All,

I have a problem with a dryer that won't start. The dryer was plugged in on a circuit that tripped at the breaker panel during heavy usage (dryer running and a hair dryer plugged in and used).

Once the power was restored at the panel, dryer would not start. When plugged in, can hear timer ticking. Tried to jump door switch, with no changes. Unable to determine if the lightbulb is good or not, but right now there is no light. No clicking sounds heard when pushing door switch or start switch, totally silent (things posted in other threads).

I will return tomorrow with my volt meter to check some things I have read about in some prior posts (timer, start switch, door switch, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat and cycling thermostat).

Anything else I could do to narrow down my search.

Any help much appreciated!