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I replaced both coils on a whirlpool/Roper RGX3514RQ1 dryer and I still do not have a flame. The igniter glows as it should, but there isn't any gas feeding it. I was careful to insure the sleeve on the front coil remained on the post when I replaced the coils.
I have verified I do have gas to the dryer. Is the problem the gas valve itself?
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Just yesterday another guy posted on the forum that one of two coils he purchased from a local supplier was bad right out of the box. It's not a good news because we can not rely on brand new parts anymore. You may want to check the new coils by measuring the resistance between terminals. The normal readings suppose to be: 2 prong coil - 1220 Ohms ± 50 Ohms 3 prongs coils - with prongs upward, from left to right between the left and middle prongs - 1365 Ohms ± 25 Ohms, between the left and right prongs - 560 Ohms ± 25 Ohms. Post the results. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Whirlpool LGR4634PQ1 29" GAS DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Gene,
I've been reading your responses to many users on this forum with the same problem I have. It appears to me that you are the expert.
I just got a used whirlpool gas dryer (LGR4634PQ1) and there is no heat. I tested for continuity on all the steps that you've mentioned in other posts. Everything is a-ok. So I ordered a new set of valve coils and replaced them. Still does not work.
What i noticed is that the coil with the 2 prongs is powered (magnetized) when the ignitor is off and it switches to the 3 prong coil when the ignitor is on. And yes my ignitor is working and it glows hot red.
The 3 prong coil was hot to the touch when after 2+ cycles. Is this normal?
Also, i can hear a click when the 2 prong coil is activated but there is no clicking sound (as to open the valve pin) when the 3 prong coil is activated when the ignitor is switched on. In absence of the clicking, I see see the 3 prong coil rattling and makes a buzzing sound - this may be a contributor to the heat?
Do you think my problem here is the gas valve itself? Not sure how the valve pins work but I am assuming it is a mix of gravity that deactivates/closes it and the magnetism from the coil activates/opens it? with this in mind, do you think if this was my problem - a gentle tap could knock the valve pin free?
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Originally Posted by: lilywhite  I can see the flame every time inginter glows
Flame last exactly 90 seconds This is the way how it suppose to work. You have to disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and run a load from A to Z. Post the results. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Does the flame go on every time when the igniter glows?
How long the flame stays on?
Gene. I can see the flame every time inginter glows Flame last exactly 90 seconds
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Does the flame go on every time when the igniter glows?
How long the flame stays on?
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene It's still the same picture or something had been changed?
A few days ago you said "it works great". Did it get worse since that?
Gene. Previously it was not drying the clothes at all, now it is drying but use two cycles instead of one.
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Originally Posted by: lilywhite ...I can see the flame during start of cycle and during the cycle for short periods, but it is not drying the clothes... It's still the same picture or something had been changed? A few days ago you said "it works great". Did it get worse since that? Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene You are welcome. I'm glad it's up and running.
Thank you for the feedback. Restricted air flow due to a clogged vents is very common cause of longer than usual time to dry. Your post would be very helpful for other people with similar problem.
Gene. Is there any other parts need to be replaced, clothes are drying but need to run two cycles.
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