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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
franken1954 Posted: Saturday, July 14, 2012 2:22:24 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks Gene
Gene Posted: Friday, July 13, 2012 10:29:37 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Bill,

I believe it will work. You also can try to use the hole for the ice maker water fill tube.

Gene.
franken1954 Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2012 3:38:19 PM(UTC)
 
Gene,

What I'm thinking about doing is the following: Cut the tan wire on the harness and splice it with 14 guage wire. Let that wire run out through the freezer door (as opposed to trying to cut a hole into the freezer wall). Hopefully the small wire won't do much to the freezer insulation. Then I was going to just tape it to the side of the refrigerator and cut the tan wire leading to the water valve and just splice it into that. I would put a cap and electrical wire on both splices. I assume that would work. Do you see any issues with that?

Thanks,

Bill
Gene Posted: Friday, June 29, 2012 9:53:47 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Bill,

The most important part of this job is to find a way for the new wire through the refrigerator wall without damaging the temperature insulation. I'm not able to help you with this project remotely. Use your common sense.

Gene.
franken1954 Posted: Friday, June 29, 2012 4:49:04 PM(UTC)
 
Gene,

As you suggested I ran a wire from the V hole to the water valve for the ice maker. I plugged in the fridge and then I lowered the ice maker arm. Water did flow (and kept flowing - I had to unplug it to stop an overflow). So - I'm assuming this means that the ice maker works and the water valve works and that I've got a wiring problem as you stated in an earlier message.

What's next - can you help me to try to fix/replace bad wiring or is it time for me to call in an expert or just buy a new fridge?

Thanks,

Bill
Gene Posted: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 11:16:24 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: franken1954 Go to Quoted Post
...Do I need to keep everything as is (i.e. ice maker in, harness in and run an extra wire inserted into the V (in the same way that I had put a paper clip in earlier) and have that wire run outside of the freezer and hook it in (along with the existing clip) into the water valve for the ice maker?...


Yes Bill. That's correct.

Gene.
franken1954 Posted: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 5:20:51 AM(UTC)
 
Gene,

I'm not sure how to do what you've asked - can you give me a little more detail? Do I need to keep everything as is (i.e. ice maker in, harness in and run an extra wire inserted into the V (in the same way that I had put a paper clip in earlier) and have that wire run outside of the freezer and hook it in (along with the existing clip) into the water valve for the ice maker?

Thanks,

Bill
Gene Posted: Monday, June 25, 2012 5:29:14 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Bill,

I can not believe that two new ice makers are both defective, causing the same problem. It's impossible. The only thing left is a problem with the wires inside the walls. Try to run a wire from the ice maker "V" test point to the water valve solenoid instead of the wire connected to it now. Watch how it will work.

Gene.
franken1954 Posted: Monday, June 25, 2012 5:11:47 AM(UTC)
 
Gene,

I have checked and the arm is properly in the down position. I have watched it cycle several times over the past 2 days and the ice maker goes through the cycle every hour or so, but no water comes out. I also do have a second harness and I have connected the ice maker with both the old and new harness (and I've watched to make sure that the ice maker runs through the cycle with both harnesses).

Please let me know if you have any other thoughts or if there are any other tests you think I should run.

Thanks,

Bill
Gene Posted: Friday, June 22, 2012 3:23:53 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Bill,

I would like to confirm (I know it sounds weird) the position of the ice maker shut off arm. Make sure it is inserted properly into the ice maker and is in down position.

You had to use the old ice maker wire harness because it's not included. Order the new harness and give it a try.

- The ice maker wire harness Part number: 70076-1
Part number: 70076-1

Gene.