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Great suggestion. I replaced the rollers with the new motor but maybe they are subquality. I still have the old ones. This makes perfect sense. Thanks Originally Posted by: denman  Congratulations on fixing it.
Your rumble at the start may be a rear support roller has gone soft.
It develops a flat spot from the drum sitting on it. Once the drum runs on it for a while it is reformed into a nice round and the rumble disappears.
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Originally Posted by: Dana-T I want to thank you for all your help solving this dryer problem. Your suggestion that the replacement motor I put in may be having an internal overload problem was it. I got a new replacement motor and now it works fine.
Glad to see you manged to take care it. I cant say that's problem that one would run into very often with those.
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Congratulations on fixing it.
Your rumble at the start may be a rear support roller has gone soft.
It develops a flat spot from the drum sitting on it. Once the drum runs on it for a while it is reformed into a nice round and the rumble disappears.
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I want to thank you for all your help solving this dryer problem. Your suggestion that the replacement motor I put in may be having an internal overload problem was it. I got a new replacement motor and now it works fine.
The only issue I have remaining is a slight knocking sound the drum makes when I first start it up aftern not using it for awhile. It quickly smooths out. I have looked inside the dryer (holding the door switch closed) when I start it but cannot notice anything. Next I plan to take off the lower panel and have my wife start it up to see what it looks like down there.
Anyway the heating and running is worked out. Your help has been greatly appreciated. I couldn't afford a new dryer and after replacing so many parts I was determined to fix the darn thing. I never would have guessed the new motor was defective.
Dana
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I didn't see an attachement with the wiring diagram. Meanwhile, the supplier is going to send a replacement motor. Is it possilbe the front bearing could be worn causing excessive drag? The drum seems to rotate pretty well but hard to tell. The dryer does make a couple light clunking noises when first stated but evens out quickly. Otherwise seems to be pumping out plenty of air out of the blower so seems to be up to speed. Originally Posted by: denman Here is a wiring diagram for a Whirlpool LER7646AN2.
Please check it against the wiring diagram on the back of the machine.
Then let us know if it is the same.
It might be helpful to know how this sucker is wired.
Note that the heater circuit should have no effect on the motor unless the unit is overheating causing the motor to overheat, and by the sound of it this is not the case.
I am also starting to think that the motor is defective. Either the thermal protect is tripping at too low a temperature or you have a broken wire in the run winding that opens once the motor warms up a bit.
The circuit path for the motor is fairly simple Neutral , Door Switch , Timer Switch 4 , Centrifugal Switch , Motor , Push To Start Relay contacts , Timer contacts BU/Bk , L1
We know the Push To Start Relay is staying energized since the motor restarts by itself. If the contacts were opening the unit would not restart by itself.
It could be that it is Timer Switch Contacts 4 but it is very doubtful that this would drop out sooner as you run more cycles.
If the Timer contacts BU/BK were the problem then the Push To Start Relay would drop out and the unit would not restart by itself.
Using the above logic all that is left is the motor.
glen65 or anyone else who wants to jump in: Does this make sense?
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Here is a wiring diagram for a Whirlpool LER7646AN2.
Please check it against the wiring diagram on the back of the machine.
Then let us know if it is the same.
It might be helpful to know how this sucker is wired.
Note that the heater circuit should have no effect on the motor unless the unit is overheating causing the motor to overheat, and by the sound of it this is not the case.
I am also starting to think that the motor is defective. Either the thermal protect is tripping at too low a temperature or you have a broken wire in the run winding that opens once the motor warms up a bit.
The circuit path for the motor is fairly simple Neutral , Door Switch , Timer Switch 4 , Centrifugal Switch , Motor , Push To Start Relay contacts , Timer contacts BU/Bk , L1
We know the Push To Start Relay is staying energized since the motor restarts by itself. If the contacts were opening the unit would not restart by itself.
It could be that it is Timer Switch Contacts 4 but it is very doubtful that this would drop out sooner as you run more cycles.
If the Timer contacts BU/BK were the problem then the Push To Start Relay would drop out and the unit would not restart by itself.
Using the above logic all that is left is the motor.
glen65 or anyone else who wants to jump in: Does this make sense?
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OK, thanks for checking this. I did verify my motor wiring was correct so that is not the issue. Also, I put my hand on the motor after it had cut out and it did not seem excessively hot to me.
Again, the dryer works fine for 5-10 minutes, then the motor and everything stops for a minute or so, then restarts. The time between cutouts becomes increasingly shorter. I can put my hand over the back of the dryer where the heater coil is and this does not feel excessively hot either (very warm but I can keep my hand on it).
Is it possilbe the replacement motor that I bought on ******** is not good? (Jason Industries is the mfg).
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Took another look at the parts listing.
It shows a Push To Start Relay checking other similar Whirlpool's I now see that the motor will restart itself, if it's internal thermal cutout trips as the relay latches in a start.
Just thought I should let you know.
Sorry for leading you astray.
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OK, thanks much. I will check it out. Originally Posted by: glen65 I Don't have the diagram on a 6800 but on most
all of them from that period the motor switch wiring went like this.
1 red (from source)
2 red (to heater assm)
3 not used
4 blue
5 white
6 Black
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