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Hi Simon,
I directly can do that and the thermister reads closed at 0 degrees and open at room temperature. The heater has I think 28 ohms resistance, I removed it to check that. The motherboard is new, thermister is new, the heater is new and I replaced two temperature sensors. It simply will not defrost. Lasts about one or two weeks, freezes up and the refrigerator side gets warm. It is just not simple to determine what is wrong at this point.
I like your test points better since that includes the wiring and connections.
Time for a new one, seems like newer appliances just do not last and to diagnose solid state circuits is not as easy as in past generations. Before I could advance the defrost circuit and have power to teh heater, etc, now I have no idea.
One intersting thng for others is that I found a very nice schematic inside the refrigerator/freezer control housing! Wish I knew it was there at first.
Craig
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Hi.
You can check the defrost heater and thermostat from the control board. Unplug the unit.
Locate the J7 plug and J9(3 wire plug). Disconnect one of them and check resistance using the multimeter between J7-9 and J9. You should have 22 ohm +. If the circuit is open - replace the defrost heater.
Thank you.
Simon.
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Well I have been struggling on, replaced the Mother Board since the wife did not want to buy another refrigerator yet and another thermister. No luck, still freezing up the coils, frigerator gets warm. Out of items to repalce at this point.:mad:
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That sucks! I delt with the same issues as you for too long. I ended up selling the fridge for $75 to a buddy for his garage and went to Lowes and spent $2300 on a french door
Samsung. It better last! :rolleyes: good luck.
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I have a GE GSS22QGMD BB side by side with the same issues. Freezer ices up, refrigerator gets warm. I replaced the thermostat switch about 3 years ago and it worked for a long time. Then the ice maker leaked, the water in the door was intermittent and now the refrigerator is warm again and freezer is iced up. I first replaced the heater with the new dual heater, that didn't fix it. Now I am replacing the thermostat and one of the temp sensors tonight. I also will not invest anymore time or parts into this POS. This will be my last GE product, I wish that there was a better system to diagnose teh proper component to replace!:mad:
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Thanks for your help I really appreciate it. but I think I'm going to scrap the fridge before I put in a mother board that may not fix it. This fridge has been nothing but a headache. This is the last GE piece of chit ill buy.
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Hi. Most likely the problem is main control board. It's located at the rear of the refrigerator on the right behind the metal plate. The control board Part number: AP4436216
Read the instructions (on some models adjustments required). Thank you. Post the results. Simon.
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Ok...my ice maker is pretty much worthless. Everytime it goes in defrost mode it melts the cubes and makes one big ice mass.
I've been doing some research and it seems I may have one or two bad thermistors. Does this sound like my problem?? Need help
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Sorry. Yes the condenser motor is running and i did vacuum the coils. They were not to bad. I never checked to see which part was bad. I just replaced them both since there both common failures. The new heater is a dual tube.
After it defrost itself it freezes right back up. Just seems like its in defrost mode to long
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Hello, TOPGLOG.
Unfortunately you are not answering my questions. Remember - you are my eyes and hands.
I need you to respond on my questions, please.
Did you check the condenser motor, did you clean the coils?
Was the defrost heater , you replaced bad?
Thank you. Please post the results.
Simon.
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