|
|
Originally Posted by: heresjohnnyoh  ... Water kept dripping from the value...Now the valve is leaking again... Sounds like the water valve is not closing properly after it was activated by the ice maker. The water valve is not repairable and I would replace it first and watch how the ice maker will work. - The water inlet valve Part number: AP3160649
Gene.
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: heresjohnnyoh Thanks Gene, I will order the replacement part and give a shout back if I need anymore help!
Gene, the ice maker started working again after I posted, but now there is a drip of water coming from the fill point that caused the ice maker to ice up. Is this in the value or is the system stuck in a cycle where the water value is not quite closed??
Thanks for a reply! I ice maker started working again, then after two weeks it iced up. Water kept dripping from the value. I took the valve apart, did not see anything that was clogged, then put it together and the leaking seemed to stop. The ice maker then did not work again, but once. Now the valve is leaking again. This all started after replacing the water filter. Now I have shut off the valve to the water supply so it will not ice up again. Thoughts??
|
|
|
Thanks Gene, I will order the replacement part and give a shout back if I need anymore help!
Gene, the ice maker started working again after I posted, but now there is a drip of water coming from the fill point that caused the ice maker to ice up. Is this in the value or is the system stuck in a cycle where the water value is not quite closed??
Thanks for a reply!
|
|
|
There is definitely a problem with the ice maker itself and the best solution is to replace it. The new ice maker comes without the front cover, shut off arm and wire harness. You have to use them from the old ice maker. - The ice maker Part number: AP4360346
Your other choice can be the ice maker kit with everything included (almost $40 more). - The ice maker kit Part number: AP2984633
|
|
|
The model number is KSRB25FHSS02 mfg date 01-00. Today I think I heard it trying to move the ice cube release teeth through the ice, but the ice did not release and it stopped.
Thanks
|
|
|
The model number you posted is incorrect or incomplete. Verify and repost it.
Gene.
|
|
|
I have a similar problem with a Kitchenaid Model KSRB25F5502. The ice maker stopped producing ice. Originally the water line was frozen, I used a hair dryer to remove the ice clog. The ice maker then produced ice for one cycle then stopped producing it again.
There is voltage of 120 across L and N, but when I put a jumper across T and H nothing happens. I do not see any LED panel so I am not sure this model has some of the other features that I have read in some of the posts.
Thanks for any help
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: jmillar I have done this and the motor does not turn when I jump T and H. My problem started with Ice pusher prongs frozen in ice tray mid rotation. I have good voltage across N and L and no lights in optics window. Any direction on what to do next would be appreciated.
thanks
John John, Looks like the ice maker has gone bad. - The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
Gene.
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: Gene You have to have a simple multimeter to perform the ice maker troubleshooting.
The first thing I would do is swap the wires between the water dispenser and the ice maker solenoids, push the water release lever on the water dispenser and see if water will come into the ice maker. If it will then there is nothing wrong with the water valve and the water line is clear.
The next step is:
Post the results and the rest of the refrigerator model number.
Gene. I have done this and the motor does not turn when I jump T and H. My problem started with Ice pusher prongs frozen in ice tray mid rotation. I have good voltage across N and L and no lights in optics window. Any direction on what to do next would be appreciated. thanks John
|
|
|
Hi Gene,
This freezer is designed like my Harley, not designed to be worked on:(!!! I finally got the "front cover" off, N&L show 20 volts:o. Next I tested continuity of the heater Test Points H&N and read something in the neighborhood of 8K ohms (High) not the expected 60 - 75 ohms. This appears to point to a bad heater, can you confirm my diagnosis before I purchase a new mold (heater). I am uncertain because when I remove the control module (board with the motor on it) i test the two pins coming from the bottom of the mold it shows a very low resistance. Is the high resistance coming from something in the CM or the heater itself??
Thanks
LarryC
|
