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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Gene Posted: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 2:27:49 PM(UTC)
 
You are welcome Corey. I'm glad it's up and running.

Gene.
Phiphtie Posted: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 7:12:16 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks for all of your help Gene! I got my parts today and my dryer is fixed... High-limit thermostat it was... Drying clothes as we speak... Thanks a lot!

Corey
Gene Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 7:13:45 PM(UTC)
 
No. That's why we check them for continuity.

Gene.
Phiphtie Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 5:33:20 PM(UTC)
 
One more question, do heating elements ever go bad, but still show continuity and the correct ohms? Do the coils ever just become burnt out, but not physically broken?
Phiphtie Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 4:47:03 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks a lot for your help Gene. I guess that I will give it a try and see if it fixes the heating issue. I'll keep you posted.
Gene Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 4:16:20 PM(UTC)
 
The only difference is the color.

Gene.
Phiphtie Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 4:14:06 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks for the quick reply Gene. I see that you posted this as a 'Breakdown And Parts Diagram' for the LE5700XSW0 model. Is there any difference between this and my LE5700XSN0, or is it the same thing?

Thanks, Corey
Gene Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 3:41:23 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Corey,

You are on the right track. The thermal cut-off comes as a kit, including the high limit thermostat. You have to install both parts.

- The thermal cut-off kit Part number: AP3094224
Phiphtie Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 3:09:19 PM(UTC)
 
Hello, My clothes dryer recently stopped heating. I've checked and reset the breaker.

*Blower Motor: Blowing Air

*Heating Element: Has continuity, I also had it hooked up to a automotive jumper pack and it produced a small amount of (heat to the touch) due to the low voltage of the supply, and shows about 10 ohms on the meter.

Thermal Fuse: Produced 0 ohms

Thermostat: Has continuity, 0 ohms

Timer Motor: I was unsure about the proper way to test this.

Thermal Cutoff: When tested for continuity, there was NO continuity, and when checked for ohms, it showed as O.L. (Open Loop) on my meter.

To me, I would *guess* the thermal cutoff, although I am a 27 year old guy with little appliance repair experience, other than when trying to avoid buying new when something can be fixed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, just let me know of any ideas any of you may have.
Thank You, Corey :confused: