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The part number for the LF surface element you posted is correct. I'm glad you were able to diagnose and fix the oven. Good job!
Gene.
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Hi Gene, Thank you for your PDF document.
I took the oven apart and measure the size. Q4: Should I get AP3672859? Is that right? A4: The measure is 10", and the size of AP3672859 shows 10 grid-size.
Q5: What would cause oven to fail? The oven was working but "FAIL" after fixing R.F. burner. I heard clicking sound after pressing "BAKE then START", but NO heat after 30 sec.
Note: TOD was working and it is "close-circuit". In addition, I tried to tied those two plug connectors and test the oven. It still doesn't work.
A5: This is cause by the loose wire(s) in the DLB relay caused by lifting the Cooktop ! Rec-connecting fixed the problem. :-)
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Hi Gene,
Thank you.
The "R.F." heat-element ix fixed. (The problem was the blown plug-connector(s) connected to the dial-switch.)
I found a crack in the "L.F. heating element" and it breaks the continuity, so I need to replace it. The element is in location "11" of the "cooktop" diagram.
The L.F. is the largest (about 10 inches) out of the 4 heating surface. Which one should I order?
Thank again.
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Hi,
I have KitchenAid eletric Range with ceramic cooktop, model number is KERC600EWH2.
Two back burners work, but two front burner failed one after the other. Once I saw spark when truning the knob on the right front burner, and the left front burner just quit working two months later (over work ? :) ).
So these two do not heat up after turning on the knob.
Q1: How can I diagnosis the problem and fix it ? Q2: How can I remove the glass cooktop to access the burner? Q3: How can I access the control if it need to connect blown wire (broken by spark)?
Thanks.
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