|
|
Nick - I'm having the exact same problem as you appeared to have. What was the eventual solution? Did you replace the circut board? Thanks.
Scott
|
|
|
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Is it possible that this model/unit does not have one?[/COLOR]
Yes it is possible sometimes they change units without changing the tech info.
Ypou have traced the wires so that is what must have happened.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Or could it be on the circut board?[/COLOR]
It will not be on the board.
It is not uncommon for elements to not work and the control board does not give error codes.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
Ok, I can not physicaly find that switch! I have traced the wiring and no luck :( I have traced every oven wire. They all follow the paths as on the wiring diagram, but there is no hi-limit switch.
Is it possible that this model/unit does not have one? Or could it be on the circut board?
Next step is to replace the conrol/circut board.
Also I do not get any error codes.
Thanks,
Nick
|
|
|
Should be Item 18 in Section 1 of the parts.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
OK, I'm not finding that switch. Do I have to take the Back Main all the way off? I can identify the door switch, oven thermastat, Terminal block....but no hi limit switch?
Anyone know where it is?
Nick
|
|
|
By the sound of it you have a meter so checking the switch is easy.
Unplug the stove and disconnect the wire/s at the switch.
I always unplug at least one side of any part I am checking just to be sure I do not measure an alternate/parallel circuit.
Then measure across the switch use the most sensitive meter scale, it should be 0 ohms.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram. Replacement parts for MAYTAG MER5755QAW RANGE- S/C F/S ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet the wiring diagram is at least a little more legible. You did not say if the broil element works. If it does not then it could be that the hi-limit switch (thermostat) is blown. Looks like it kills L2 power to both elements. The leads that plug to the element read 120VAC. Element seems to be getting electricity so why will it not heat up? Your element does not work off of 120 it requires the full 240 volts. Neutral/ground is not part of the heat element circuit which gets power from L1 to L2. It is not uncommon for one side of the elements to be hard wired to one side of the line. That is why you see 120 volts there. Also why it is very important to unplug the unit when changing an element as it is always live. They then switch in/out the other side of the line to provide 240 volts across the element. If the broil element works and the wiring to the bake element is good then odds are that the control board is shot. I beleave the broil element is not working also, though it seems to get slightly warm. The control panel works for every thing else, clock, buttons make a beeping sound, ect. I'll try the high-limit switch first and see what tht does. Is there any way to test the switch? Thanks for the note about the 110/220. I thought as much but wasn't sure why it was getting any volts. Thanks!
|
|
|
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram. Replacement parts for MAYTAG MER5755QAW RANGE- S/C F/S ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet the wiring diagram is at least a little more legible. You did not say if the broil element works. If it does not then it could be that the hi-limit switch (thermostat) is blown. Looks like it kills L2 power to both elements. [COLOR="DarkRed"] The leads that plug to the element read 120VAC. Element seems to be getting electricity so why will it not heat up?[/COLOR] Your element does not work off of 120 it requires the full 240 volts. Neutral/ground is not part of the heat element circuit which gets power from L1 to L2. It is not uncommon for one side of the elements to be hard wired to one side of the line. That is why you see 120 volts there. Also why it is very important to unplug the unit when changing an element as it is always live. They then switch in/out the other side of the line to provide 240 volts across the element. If the broil element works and the wiring to the bake element is good then odds are that the control board is shot.
|
| THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
HI,
The oven bake element in my oven burt out, so I replaced it, but it still does not work. The leads that plug to the element read 120VAC. Element seems to be getting electricity so why will it not heat up?
BTW This is the 2nd "good" element. I replaced the first one just in case.
The stove top works with no problems.
Thanks,
Nick
|
