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I actually just watched it drip. It starts to drip out of the bottom while the unit is still filling (I can hear the pump) and then continues for a few seconds after I hear it turn off. So I'm guessing the valve is OK and the problem is with the coating as you mentioned in your first post. Thanks.
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The ice maker serves as a switch to turn on the water valve, for a predetermined time (usually about 7 seconds). Removing the ice maker doesn't normally affect the valve; but you DO want to determine whether the problem is in the valve.
If you remove the ice maker, and see that the valve indeed drips, THEN it's time to turn off the water at its source. You will need to do so, any way, before replacing the valve, if your diagnosis comes to that.
Don't worry about flooding anything: If it were that bad, you would already have a mess.
You'll need to keep the ice maker connected, if you want to test it as I described above.
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As the title implies, here's a stupid question. If I electrically disconnect the ice maker, will the water fill valve stay closed? I assume it stays in the closed position unless it gets a signal from the ice maker to open. Just want to determine if I need to turn off the water if I pull the unit to investigate further / replace the unit or if I can leave it turned on. Thanks.
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Ice maker molds develop (over time [depending on water condition]) a film that can wick the water up out of the mold, and over the side. Closely examine your unit. If you see a white (or nearly white) film on the mold, you should replace the unit. Cleaning usually doesn't help; If it does, it's only temporary.
To test the water valve, there are a couple ways that you can go about it. Probably the easiest (or at least the most straight-forward)way is to move the ice maker out of the way of the filler tube (but leave it hooked up, electrically). Remove the front cap from the ice maker and, using an insulated wire, jump between the "L" and "V" test holes to temporarily activate the water fill. Have a cup or similar vessel there to catch the water; and just make the connection for a second or two (just long enough to see some water flow). Watch it for a few seconds after you remove your jumper, to see if it continues to drip. If it does, replace the valve.
NOTE: Be extremely careful while making this, or any, electrical test. You're dealing with 120VAC, which can seriously injure, or electricute you.
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The ice maker in my Kitchen Air refridgerator has been dripping for about 6 months. It drips at the bottom near the side closest to the back wall (right near the fill tube). It leaks for a few seconds after the tray has been filled with water. I took out the unit and reinstalled it; it didn't look like anything was wrong with it. I turned down the fill volume, and the drip got better, but it's still dripping. This causes an icy mess all over the freezer; the ice cube container gets dripped on, causing the cubes to freeze together, and even drips onto the freezer rear wall and bottom tray.
Someone said the shutoff valve might need to be cleaned. Could that be the cause? If not, does anyone have any other ideas of the cause? Thanks.
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