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gas dryer sensor stays on but will not ignite? Whirlpool brand. What could be the problem?
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I replaced both coils. Problem solved. thanks
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Thanks Admin/APP Team
Responding on this site is a great teaching tool, I figure if I can diagnose a problem on line, finding out the problem when I can actually look at the machine should be a snap.
Also, hate to see a post go unanswered, even if it to say I cannot help.
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Al, most likely the culprit is one or both of the coils. Measuring resistance in this case will not do much good because depending on the break in the wire inside the solenoid they may be giving proper reading with power off and come apart once they begin to energize.
Replace the coils and let us know what happens.
P.S. Welcome to the forum, sidfink43 :cool: Good to have another knowledgeable tech help out.
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Hi
If you look at the posts on this site that involve heating problems with gas dryers you will see that they tend to get no response. I think the reason for this is that those of us who reply are electric folks, and I for one am not comfortable giving advice on gas burner issues. I suspect this is true of others as well.
If you have a gas burner issue on a clothes dryer I strongly recommend you get a service call from a qualified gas professional. Saving money on repairs is not worth the risk of the consequences of improperly operating gas appliances.
Good luck, and sorry I cannot be of help.
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I hope my hunch (below) is right, because I just ordered 2 solenoids.
I have a Maytag Gas Dryer, (D-6), Model LDG7304AAE, Serial A0185687HY (it's 15 years young). My problem (after I opened the front of the dryer to see inside)....I have power, my lint trap is clean, my vents are open, I turn on the dryer, the clothes/drum turns, the igniter glows orange for 30 seconds, NO GAS IS RELEASED, thus NO BLUE FLAME at all, thus NO HEAT to the clothes. After about 30 seconds the ignitor cools down...then after about 30 seconds the igniter glows orange again...but, again, NEVER any gas released or blue flame or heat. I have gas to my gas house heater and gas hot water heater....and I really can't believe my gas line to my clothes dryer is clogged (a shut off valve to my dryer is in the same open position it's been in for 25 years). After reading several on-line pages, I "believe" that one or both of my solenoids are bad. I removed them. One has a two-prong electrical connection; one has a three-prong electrical connection. I tested for continuity between all the prongs on both solenoids.
The two-prong solenoid has infinite resistance between the two prongs.
Question #1 for you: should this two-prong solenoid have infinite resistance between its two prongs? If not, what resistance should it have?
For the three-prong solenoid: there is about 1400 ohms between prong 1 and the center prong.
Question #2 for you: what resistance should this three-prong solenoid have between prong 1 and the center prong?
For the three-prong solenoid: there is about 1900 ohms between prong 3 and the center prong.
Question #3 for you: what resistance should this three-prong solenoid have between prong 3 and the center prong?
There is about 500 ohms between prong 1 and 3.
Since I can easily remove and replace the two solenoids, I took a chance and just ordered the two solenoids (AP3094251) from you guys (I hope these "one size fits all" solenoids are the proper ones for my dryer). Of course, my real concern is whether that is truly the problem or the SOLE problem (or am I buying two solenoids that I really don't need?...too late!). Based on the info provided above....
Question #4 for you: Do you think it's one or both of the solenoids that is the problem (especially the one with infinite resistance)?
Question #5 for you: Could the actual valve get mechanically stuck? Is that really common?
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