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The new dual heaters will not overheat, much more reliable.
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Originally Posted by: richappy  I would temporarily short the defrost thermostat wires and do the test again to confirm heater failure. No need. While walking back in the house from the shop, an end fell off the heater exposing the problem. Heater element was burnt into. I guess that's why the tube was black and that end looked like it got too hot browning and all. Only question I have now is what would have caused the over heating burning it up??? I just got done ordering the new heater. The 9'' double tube. I would need to know if any other part was malfunctioning to keep from eventually burning this new heater up. You've made me a customer for life richappy with your help. Thanks a ton! Kevin
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I would temporarily short the defrost thermostat wires and do the test again to confirm heater failure.
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Originally Posted by: richappy You have a complete defrost failure, not a partial one due to a defective evaporator thermistor, but if you want you can replace that.
If you get defrost action with the test, you probably have a bad motherboard. O.K. I performed the test you recommended. I suppose I did it right, for when I put the jumper wire in the 3 prong plug off of the motherboard and plugged the fridge back in, the fridge's fan and compressor did not run going into defrost mode I guess. I opened the freezer door and the light was on inside freezer but the heating element was still cold (not working). Motherboard I guess is O.K.??? So I guess your next recommendation should be to replace the heater? Since it did not heat up when jumper wired. If so, I willl order from you guys right away, unless you have any questions thinking I did something wrong? Your recommendation please??? Thanks, Kevin
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O.K... I get exactly what you are saying.
I will put back in all that I have taken out, then perform the test you recommended. Then that test should tell me whether the motherboard is bad or it's the heater.....
Really appreciate the advice....I will re-post on here what I found out in a few days.
Thanks a bunch richappy.
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You have a complete defrost failure, not a partial one due to a defective evaporator thermistor, but if you want you can replace that.
If you get defrost action with the test, you probably have a bad motherboard.
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Originally Posted by: richappy Pull the cover off the motherboard, locate the 3 pin power connector and pull off.Place a wire jumper between the connector mating pins that go to the board pins labeled line and def. Plug in fridg, assuming it is cold, you should see the defrost heater heat up. if so, replace the motherboard, if not, probably a bad defrost heater. So re-install the defrost heater and the defrost limiter thermostat, then plug the fridge back up to run long enough to get cold and start frosting, then do as you advised??? I definitely should un-plug the fridge to put jumper wire in first, then not touching any thing (motherboard or jumper wire, as in not to be electricuted), re-plug the fridge back in so the fridge will have power to heat the defrost heater??? There is no way of telling if the resistance reading I previously posted for the defrost heater tells you/me if heater is bad or not??? I'm sorry but there were a lot of questions in my previous post that are left un-answered....... Does the temperature sensor have nothing to do with this problem??? I would definitely like to check out all possible cheaper parts and make sure they are 100% in working order before spending the $140 or better for a motherboard and then it turns out to be a smaller, cheaper item that was overlooked...... Thanks again, Kevin
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Pull the cover off the motherboard, locate the 3 pin power connector and pull off.Place a wire jumper between the connector mating pins that go to the board pins labeled line and def. Plug in fridg, assuming it is cold, you should see the defrost heater heat up. if so, replace the motherboard, if not, probably a bad defrost heater.
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This GE fridge has been freezing up so bad it is not circulating the air properly to work as it should. I pulled the back panel off to expose the coils and removed the single tube defrost heater, checked with an ohm meter for continuity, it read 2.86 to 2.94 cold.
I also removed and cut the wires to the defrost limiter thermostat, checked it for continuity, it read 00.0 or closed, cold. So it is O.K. to re-install, right???
I do not know what the resistance reading should be for the defrost heater? It looks a little raggedy (tube black and both ends a little browned) but still shows resistance.....Is that reading bad or O.K.? Should it be replaced???
If both parts, the defrost heater and the defrost limiter thermostat are O.K., then what should be checked next? The temperature sensor? And should it show closed or have resistance? If resistance? How much should it read?
If the temperature sensor checks out O.K. then it has to be the mother board making this fridge freeze up right???
The fridge works great for a week or better if you cut off, let thaw, then cut back on. I would really like to fix it.
Thanks in advance for any help you offer. I'm really liking this forum.
Kevin
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