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as am I. referred my neighbor to APP.com today. he is having trouble with the water supply for cubes & water in his fridge. We'll probabably give it an amateur stab & then call for help..........bill
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Glad I could help.
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Ordered the PC board Mon AM from APP. arrived today, installed it tonite & we are up & running. Again, thanks for the help!!! Bill
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seems to easy! I'll order a board! thanks
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Just to clarify again. Follow the black wire from the fuse to the control board. That is the wire the control board gets it's power from. The wire from the switch only provides the power to the switched components, so if you have power between the black wire from the fuse, to the neutral wire, then the control must be bad.
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Yessir. Have been using the white solid as a reference for line voltage, either at the first door switch or at the PC board. first switch is only used w/ plastic tub models (found the diagram, thanks) & switches common to a white/purple tracer to the board. second switch switches line voltage to a solid tan, also goes to the board. have line voltage at the board between the white/purple and tan when both door switches are closed, about 1 v with switches open. also checked the fuse out of circuit w/ DVOM shows 0 to .1 ohm. examined board both sides & no signs of arcs, burns etc. found 2 test points on the top of the board at the 14 pin connector to the control panel, marked "test wh 1" & "test wh 2". any idea of how to use those test points? PC board is about $78 delivered & I'd like to be pretty sure its bad before I order one ....thanks again........bill
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Just to clarify, you have 120vac on both sides of the fuse when measured to ground, not between the two sides of the fuse? The L1 line comes from the junction box below into one side of the fuse, then out the other side the wire splits and goes to the control board and to the switch. The output from the switch goes to another connector on the board. There should be a wiring diagram in the pocket on the access panel on the bottom. If it is not there, I have been using the Kitchenaid version which is very similar. You should measure 120vac between the output of the fuse and a white wire connected to the board. If you have that, then the board must be bad and I would look for a visible sign of damage on the back of the board.
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Thanks. have power at the fuse (both sides) & power to the board, which is direct to the board from the switch, not thru the fuse. the fuse is in line with a black wire which runs across the front & down under the unit. Is there a wiring diagram out there some where?
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Check for power between the fuse and a neutral (white) wire to ensure you have a complete circuit. If not, check the connection at the junction box. If you do, then follow the output from the fuse to the board and verify voltage at the board. If it is there, then the board is bad. Verify all wires are connected and nothing looks loose.
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Unit is less than 2 yrs old. Worked fine on Weds. clean lite on when unloaded. No lights & no buttons work on the control panel as of yesterday. 110v to both door switches, and to and thru overheat fuse. where do I go from here?
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