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You still haven't provided a model number so I am not entirely sure what you are looking at, but in many cases, there are some screws behind a couple of the knobs that go through the bezel and into a bracket holding the panel place. As for paying for a diagnosis, if someone does come out and reset the thermal fuse, I would expect them to also figure out why it happened. May be a fluke, but if a safety component trips, I like to figure out why.
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Thanks Brian
A contractor friend with the right tools tried to get into the control panel, located behind the control knobs on the front. I need to get off the control knobs because there seem to be screws that originate behind them and go through the front of the panel and into little L brackets to hold it on. Kind of a nifty lock to keep me out, is the way I look at it. I will be sooooooo p-ed if I have to pay $200 for someone to come and hit the reset. The $200 is what the repair service around here charges just for "diagnostics".
Any further suggestions on getting down in there?
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A model number would be most helpful. If it is only the oven that is no longer working, I would suspect a thermal fuse has opened the L2 circuit to the elements. It is usually located behind the control panel with a red reset button.
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Of course, my warranty is up. First the broiler just shut down, no warning, mid broil. The convection oven seemed to be ok when I turned it on, the fan started up ok. But that shut down within a minute. The gas stove top portion works fine. Suggestions?
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